Thread: Hydraulic clutch adjustment

So removing that spacer is something that people do to get more adjustment? I moved the clutch pedal rod out by about 3/8" or 10mm and it still engages right off the floor. The clutch when warmed up won't allow you to shift to 1st gear, it won't release all the way when warm.

Why would removing the spacer have anything to do with adjustment? Regardless where the slave sits its only going to have the same range of movement with or without the spacer. My last clutch was like this, turned out to be too much stepping on the flywheel and fried my clutch and pressure plate.

You need to bleed it then.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension-brakes-tech/38420-p11-how-install-ss-hydro-clutch-line-bypass-damper-bleed-clutch.html

This thing has been bled like 10 times.

With the proper steps right? Bleeding a clutch is a bit different from brakes.

If you can see the slave cylinder move a lot (the rod at the transmission) it's something else that is the issue and the movement to push the TOB out has increased to the point where you have little room until the pressure plate springs back and grabs the clutch disc, which is why its engaging almost when you let off the floor. Hydro clutch setups are the best, but only when brand new correct parts are used IMO, no machined or cut flywheels or spacers. If there is a popping noise, peek inside and see if you can see something moving around in a way its not meant to. I'd suspect the TOB and clutch fork are making noise due to something not fitting right, IE wrong clutch setup or flywheel. There is not enough movement and that can only be caused by the spacing being wrong on the flywheel and pressure plate. Whats your setup again?

Well, 2600lb of pressure plate is too much for the hydraulic setup. Either that, or this clutch has serious adjustment issues.

Put the Exedy pp back in, and the clutch works absolutely flawlessly now. So something has to be up with the pp. Maybe it was too much pressure and the master cylinder couldn't supply enough... don't know. But we kept the aggressive disk in there and put the stocker pp back in it and it works.

You might have to bypass the damper then. How much power are you guys pushing? I would like to know if I'll have the same problems

This is a worry for me, my pressure plate has a bit more than that, and i will be running hydraulic on my 6 speed when i put it in my p10. I am only going to be runnning 1 line straight from the master to the slave, so im hoping using small diameter tubing will provide enough travel. Can also use a braided line to the slave to reduce any flex in the hose i guess.

I have had this exact problem with 2 p11's here while fitting exedy clutch's.

I have never run a 2600lb pressure plate before in a FWD nissan. 2300lb is the highest I ran, but it still used a 1800lb diaphram with a geometry modification to get more clamp. Something like that...

2600lbs is just rediculous. Stock clamp load is 1100-1300lbs. So doubling the pressure is kinda crazy.

I guess deleting the damper could do it, but I don't see a lot of ppl with this issue. We swapped the pp and all is good now. The exedy pp actually works like stock.

This p11 is running a GT2871r. I expect it to push no more than 370whp.