Thread: Hydraulic clutch adjustment

I know a lot of guys here have had clutch adjustment issues in the past with cable operated clutches. I've always owned a cable operated car, and I have a good idea of what is going on and why we would need adjustment spacers etc.

But I am at a loss right now, because this 1999 p11 I'm working on is hydraulic. The clutch engages right off the floor. Does anyone know how to adjust the clutch on these hydraulic systems? I have adjusted the pedal rod all the way out and it is still stuck on the floor. I even took the aluminum spacer out of the slave, just taking a shot at seeing what that would do, but it is the same.

Anyone have any ideas? I've bled the thing a million times, by pumping, and gravity bleeding as well.

Where the clutch pedal is, there will be a rod that you spin. That lets you adjust it. But it might need to be bled instead though.

Did it bleed normally, meaning was there significant pressure after several pumps and then holding to the floor?

If not either the clutch master cylinder rod is not adjusted properly not allowing enough fluid to go past the valve to pressurize the line or the clutch master cylinder is weak.

This was a problem on the hydraulic conversions i did as the pedal does not sit in the same place so the adjustment rod on the master cylinder where it connects to the pedal needs to be adjusted to allow fully extension of the master cylinder rod when the clutch is disengaged.

If your getting weird bleeding attributes then thats a sign. But if the thing has never been messed with then may be a bad master cylinder not providing enough line pressure to move the clutch arm far enough.

Try and bleed the slave cylinder. or have someone watch is when u step on the clutch. Could be bad slave cylinder.

Ya the rod is out pretty much as far as it will go. Any amount of clutch pedal movement results in movement at the slave cylinder. I can try bleeding it again, but this thing has used an entire pint of DOT 3 and I'm not getting any more air bubbles.

Clutch was working fine before the motor swap. During the swap we put in a double diaphram pp with a sprung 4-puck clutch. Now, only adjustment issues.

if its anything like the gti-r setup, i just adjusted mine yesterday

1. adjust the rod towards the firewall and out of the fork.
2. loosen off the bolt that adjusts freeplay



someone else mentioned that it could be that their clutch fork pivot had broken
SUPER SHORT CLUTCH! | Canada GTiR | Nissan Pulsar GTi-R

hope that helps a little

No, it isn't anything like that. But the pedal is making a "popping" noise now when the clutch gets pushed in. Sounds like it is coming from the transmission.

So I figure it has to be something with the clutch is broken, or the pin on the slave is rubbing very harshly against the fork.

Its worth mentioning that the slave cylinder moves a lot when the pedal is depressed. It moves pretty far.

Did it change the engagement at all when you adjusted the "pin" all the way out like you said? Weird, usually taking the spacer from in between the trans/slave does the trick.