Consider leaving the wiring as is, get relays for the headlights
Originally Posted by
PEDRONX2k I'm Having headlight problem s too....I'm just going to run allll new wires....
Wish I had Coleman's Rally Beater wiring article so I could articulate why relays work so much better an the only new wiring you need is right at the light (which is included, usually).
Lower/Smaller gauge wire is fine to close a circuit like the switch back on the stalk. You don't need or want the kind of current optimal for the lights running all over the car. The slightest grounding issue, you're screwed. Plus with higher wattage bulbs drawing more current, you may blow fuses. The relays isolate the higher current into the absurdly short wire run from my positive battery lead to the lights and the neg on each relay shares the same ground as the battery leads.
Have to dig around on this but I have a feeling people may be approaching the issue the hard way. My lows/highs are bright as hell, the only bulb issues I have is lower life, usually a year, plus driving 450F/350R Progress CO's on the street, everything takes a little more beating, when you add in track use.
Excuse the total fvking mess, this was from before when I needed to move some stuff in a hurry so it looks like crap. You however can see the headlight relay, either high or low (I forget). Keeping in mind the blue cables are my "battery" (it's in the trunk).
HTH at least a little.