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Thread: Engine Bay Help

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Posts: 1-8 of 8
2011-02-19 23:13:21
#1
Engine Bay Help
I just got my self a b13 shell and before I get the motor in I wanted to clean up the engine bay and re spray it, most likely get the holes filled since it has a wire tuck...

Im trying to see if anyone has any experience with this or if anyone has any advice on
-Whats the best way to strip the engine bay ex. what tools to use that would make it easier to scuff/remove the old paint and be able to get it smooth.

- what to use to fill in little holes and also some body lines inside the engine bay to give it a smooth flow. ( im thinking bondo will possibly crack but not to sure )

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

Here are a few pics of the shell.











Last edited by blkb13 on 2011-02-20 at 04-50-34.
2011-02-20 02:17:16
#2
Who's car was that? How fast has it been?

Seems funny to have the jump start things on the front bumper, and the kill switch on the back.

Also never seen a drag car with extended rear studs.
2011-02-20 04:59:12
#3
Originally Posted by AaroNX
Who's car was that? How fast has it been?

Seems funny to have the jump start things on the front bumper, and the kill switch on the back.

Also never seen a drag car with extended rear studs.



I bought it from "jujubee20" from the sr20forum.

Not sure what power it put down prior I know there was a ve in it.

Yes the power studs on the bumper im not a huge fan of but untill I get a new bumper im going to have to leave them there. Kill switch I cant really do anything about unless I want a hole in the back.

I dont think it was a drag car but I could be wrong. He had some volks on there so thats probly why it has the extended wheel studs.
2011-02-21 02:40:19
#4
Hit me up with a PM or check out my build thread...
2011-02-21 03:26:07
#5
If you or someone you know can mig weld, there's a trick using copper stock behind the hole and then welding the perimeter of the hole in a spiral-like path until it is completely filled. the copper distributes heat and doesn't bond with steel so you won't get any burn through and you'll be able to knock the copper piece right off. If it's a larger hole just cut a covering patch and tack it all around until it is fully welded. You will probably have to use a magnet or something else to keep it on the backside of the hole.
2011-02-21 03:50:42
#6
Originally Posted by Jimithin7000
Hit me up with a PM or check out my build thread...


Pm sent

Originally Posted by wildmane
If you or someone you know can mig weld, there's a trick using copper stock behind the hole and then welding the perimeter of the hole in a spiral-like path until it is completely filled. the copper distributes heat and doesn't bond with steel so you won't get any burn through and you'll be able to knock the copper piece right off. If it's a larger hole just cut a covering patch and tack it all around until it is fully welded. You will probably have to use a magnet or something else to keep it on the backside of the hole.


Awesome, I read that somewhere on yahoo as well, Rite now im trying to get my hands on a mig welder but as soon as I do I can go ahead and do that.

Much appreciated
2011-02-23 16:45:52
#7
No problem. Don't worry about getting any gas, fluxcore will work perfectly fine.
2011-02-23 17:11:49
#8
A copper block is a must have. I used one with 4 magnets on each corner... don't waste your money the magnets fail within 4-7 welds.
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