Thread: plate or no plate?

so i am in the middle of an engine rebuild. is it really necessary to use a TQ plate when honing? i would like to get my clearances as tight as i can and if that meens i have to bore the cyl slightly and use the next grade size to get the tightest OEM spec tolerance allowable i will UNLESS a TQ plate is absolutly imperitive because i dont feel like tracking one down or sending my block out to JWT.

Regardless, I would think you need to use a torque plate when honing, as bore distortion in the upper cylinder is very likely without anything keeping the cylinder straight...

I wonder if anyone on the forum has one you could rent from them?

http://www.sr20-forum.com/showthread.php?t=3544

no way in hell will i spend $500 to personally buy a TQ plate. now if i can rent one from somewhere id be down.

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=you+can+but+you+shouldn't&gbv=2&ie=UTF-8&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi

i didnt use one when i had my engine bored for 87MM z32 pistons but i trust my machinest alot.

btw i drive around daily with 270 hp and the engine has made 325 (track tune)

If you are only honing and using a dingleball hone, you do not need a torque plate as you are not physically removing material. You are only breaking the cylinder glaze and adding cross hatching to promote ring seal at break in.

Bingo.

Thats true, if you are just planning on removing the glaze and getting the cross-hatch back with a dingleball you are fine...

I assumed you wanted more material removed that that...

But if you need to take off more material and do it w/o a torque plate distortion is likely... How much distortion is something I'm unsure of, but JWT would probably know (maybe .002?)

i would use the plate