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Thread: Possible ways to tell if you have a JDM 10:1

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Posts: 11-20 of 20
2011-01-04 19:44:01
#11
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
You could compression check it. If you have more than 185psi of compression across the board then its a good chance its a 10:1

All the other 9.5:1 motors i got came in around 175-180 across. If i remember right one of the 10:1 motors compression checked at 190psi



Depending on how long the motor has been out of action the initial compression might vary a lot.

Our local N14's Sentras & Sabre (hatch) came with 10:1 compression, and are highport DE's. Havent' really looked into ways of identifying them such as common headstamp numbers or anything like that though.

Only way to be 100% certain you're getting a 10:1 is by sticking a borescope or other small camera in the plughole and checking if it has a flat top piston or a slight dished one.

The difference in performance between 10:1 and 9.5:1 is not that big though.
2011-01-04 19:52:57
#12
heres some food for the thoughts

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/122-sr20de-t-compression-headcode-list.html
2011-01-04 19:59:37
#13
doesnt the jdm has no EGR?
2011-01-04 20:42:24
#14
Yeah that headcode list isn't accurate from what I can tell.

I'm not sure what the codes actually mean but I have seen American engines with the same codes as JDMs therefore yeah more proof that the headcode list is not that accurate.
2011-01-04 21:26:04
#15
Originally Posted by rubenxh0k
doesnt the jdm has no EGR?


correct
2011-01-04 22:46:54
#16
That would coincide with the fact that I have an EDM 100 NX GTI (Highport SR powered) without EGR. And, AFAIK, all EDM Highport SR20DE's are 10:1.
2011-01-05 03:15:56
#17
Originally Posted by Doctor
Depending on how long the motor has been out of action the initial compression might vary a lot.

Our local N14's Sentras & Sabre (hatch) came with 10:1 compression, and are highport DE's. Havent' really looked into ways of identifying them such as common headstamp numbers or anything like that though.

Only way to be 100% certain you're getting a 10:1 is by sticking a borescope or other small camera in the plughole and checking if it has a flat top piston or a slight dished one.

The difference in performance between 10:1 and 9.5:1 is not that big though.


Most people won't have a scope. I did stick one in my UK motor one time for yucks and its obviously pretty easy to tell then.
2011-03-23 19:50:57
#18
Well Fellas I'm not certain anymore of what I have. I really felt I purchased a 9.5:1 engine. I did a warm compression test on the engine today. It came out in psi 195 200 200 200. These numbers are on the high side even for a 10:1. A 10:1 should be mid 180s according to the FSM. I'm thinking my rented gauge was off or maybe my engine has some carbon build up that has pushed its compression numbers that high.

The good thing that was determined was that my compression numbers are pretty much the same across the board.
2011-03-23 19:53:03
#19
Eh ive had 10:1's come out to 190-195 before so its probably a 10:1 like you said with some carbon buildup on the tops. Which is common
2011-03-23 20:02:58
#20
^^Good to know. I guess I'll just beat on it and open it up when its asking for a rebuild, lol.
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