Thread: HELP! I think I killed it!!

Without knowing more about the unit you're using, all I can do is guess. But when you said 'DC Volts 10A' that doesn't sound right. Often a multimemter will have a specific place to hook the red probe up to for measuring only high (relatively) current, that will be marked "10A" (or whatever the higher range the meter can use is). You don't want to be plugged into that when measuring voltage.

Here's a typical basic DVM:



Notice the unused probe connection labeled 10A DC? that one gets used for measuring current (amperage) only, nothing else. In this picture, the probes are attached the way you'd want to when measuring voltage. Then you would select DC Voltage (V... NOT V~ in this image) and pick the smallest range that will include the voltages you expect to see (20 in this case).

Helps?

Yes, now which wire would I read from? The 5v read, or the positive?

The positive is only going to tell you what the voltage being supplied is. You want to look at the 0-5v output wire.

According to Dre (http://www.sr20-forum.com/howtos/9138-nissan-maf-wiring-dummies.html) on your car it would be the orange wire.

But the thing is, you can check easily enough. If the signal reads ~12-14v, then that's the positive wire. If it reads somewhere below 5v, but not 0v, that's your output.

Yeah, I'm not even going to try again I don't think... I'll bring it over to my uncles shop and ask him to do it.

I am in the process of re grounding the MAF now though. Hope I got the right wire. :P
Dre's thread says it is ALWAYS the middle wire, so I should be golden.

This is what I currently have done. I cut the ground wire, and soldered them back together into this female butt connector. Sorry for the shit pics. I have soldered and shrink wrapped both sides of the wire I will be using as well. & No worries, I will clean up that wire mess when I am done. Reason for the butt connector is that if something goes wrong, I can quickly unplug my new ground. I will be grounding it to the right one of the two bolts on top of the intake manifold.

MAF has been re grounded successfully. My idle no longer feels like it's missing (At this point, but normally it would be very noticeable right away). Don't have a code scanner at the house, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if it is still throwing the code. Someone told me that the MAF code could also have been the cause of my Knock Sensor and o2 sensor code, which both popped up the same time the MAF code did; Any truth? Have another knock sensor via Jay to go in if need be.

Does the engine rev over 2500rpm? If so your maf is probably fine...

Yeah, engine revs all the way through. But at about 3k it starts hesitating. I know there is something wrong with my MAF, otherwise it wouldn't be throwing the code for it. lol.

silly question, but did you clear the code after regrounding?

I do not have access to the scanner until tomorrow when I run up to the shop. I still have a CEL but I have always had it for my rear o2 Sensor & something with the EGR.