Thread: Golden Eagle Head studs. - 2 questions

Great. Go ahead and do it that way. Have fun screwing and unscrewing the studs. If you re-read my posts you"ll get all the answers

if you install the head and then put on the chain and guides this is not a issue. you can do it your way but I wanted to make sure the timing chain did not slip. I just put my motor together and I can tell you the studs were barely long enough. I know coheed also found this to be the case. Coheed has pictures of his studs installed and his did not clear the nuts. Mine did not clear the nuts either but the studs did sit flush with nuts.

true. but for the average guy who is just installing the studs and not building the entire motor that's been torn apart (i.e. chain guides in place) the head has to go on first.

Also, even with the motor torn apart it is much easier installing the head with the oil pump (and therefore chain and chain guides) already installed to the block. But I guess to each his own.

With my build the studs protruded a few mm above the nuts once torqued down. This was with a skimmed head and 1.9mm MLS gasket. Skimming the head compensates for the thicker headgasket obviously.

did you guys use the b16 studs or some other integra studs perhaps? Apprently the b16 studs were said to be slightly longer than sr20 studs.

Ashton has a picture in his thread of them sticking a few mm's above the nut.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/members-rides/29127-9-second-b13-sentra-se-r-build-update-2-26-11-highway-pulls-slicks-7.html#post454871


heres a question. I already read that you install the studs into the block dry.
So what about when you go to torque the nuts? Assembly lube or dry?

Nope they were b16 head studs brand new in the box. My block and head had been surfaced for the metal head gasket but I did not have it shaved. the studs seemed to be a .5-1mm short. I figured the difference was in the the head and block prep. Also if I had not used the 1.5mm gasket this would not have been a issue. I even measured the head thickness with a height gauge/surface block and checked it against a stock de head and found they both were the same.

use assembly lube on the nuts and studs. ge ships the lube with the studs.

just for information this is what coheeds looked like with his installed and the head on.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/30607-new-ve-t-blogger-dyno-low-boost-6-10-10-a-2.html

That probably has to do with the VE head. You have to remember mine was on a DE head. Also threads right at the top of the nut is how its supposed to be. So its safe to say for a VE they are the perfect length.

my ve head height measured the same as the de but I did not measure from the mating surface to the top of the hole. I just wanted people not to freak out like I did when the head studs were not as long as expected. I was thinking they would stick out as far as yours did.

Yeah, i think from the surface to the top of the hole is a little taller. Again it wasnt like mine were sticking out a crazy amount out the top of then nut, We are talking about maybe a 1/4" at the most if that. And i know mine were seated all the way because the block was cleaned. All the holes cleaned out with compressed air and cleaner and then torqued the studs down to 10 ft-lbs as the instructions say. So that possibility is out. I was using the 1.1mm headgasket as well. So that is some of it already.