Thread: Golden Eagle Head studs. - 2 questions

Need to take them out and start over. I would also run a tap through with some aluminum cutting fluid. then flush the holes with the block upside down.

Yeah you definitely got something hindering them from going down all the way. Like he said flip the block upside down and run a tap through the holes to clean the threads and spray it out with some brake cleaner to flush it all out and clean them up.

What part number did you use?

^That's what I thought. You pick them up form GregV?

I'm not sure of the exact part number. BUt it's B16A studs.




ps: WHat is the thread size and pitch of the TAP that I need to use to clean up the threads in the block?

10mm or 11mm and thread pitch 1.5??

they are 11mm but I am not sure of the pitch.

Thanks for all the info guys.

Ran a tap through the block holes. Threads seemed okay, but a lot of gunk game out of the holes. Looks like a hard paste made up of copper paste, metal filings (from decking the block I presume) and some oil. The tap did also clean up the threads nicely.

After all this, the installation of the head studs went off without a hitch. Torqued them 25lb-ft, loosen, 25lb-ft, loosen, 25lb0ft, 50lb-ft, 75lb-ft, and left it at that.

Everything else isntalled, started her up, went for a short run and so far so good.

Thanks again

Just for future reference...The threads are definitely all the way into the block.

Good news Doctor G. Glad it worked out for you, and it was just that they were gunked up.

Yeah I'm also happy it worked out. And it's so much damn easier to torque down the nuts than it is to work with stretch bolts.


Just for reference, the middle two studs (one intake, one exhaust side) sit just a touch higher than the rest. I.E. they dont' thread into the block quite as deep as the rest. The holes are not as deep there. The pics above also show it clearly.

Oh and for those who wanna buy these. Lightning Motorsports also supply them now.

CHeers