Thread: Golden Eagle Head studs. - 2 questions

Hey guys,

Recently picked up a set of these and I wonder if you can assist with the following:

a) what torque settings should I torque them to on a SR head? And is it phased?

b) Where can I buy another set? The previous seller only had one set available.

thanks

You can get another set from thmotorsports. They combined a few part numbers which may be why you can't find them. Use the torque spec that came with the headstuds.

Yep, use the torque specs with the studs. If you dont have them I believe off the top of my head its 25 ft-lbs, loosen all, 25 ft-lbs, loosen all, 25 ft-lbs loosen all, then 25 ft-lbs, 50 ft-lbs, and final torque of 71 ft-lbs. The 25 then loosen helps seat the headgasket fully to get a proper final torque reading.

Awesome studs and I would recommend them over anybody. Im using them on my 700+whp build. They held absolutely flawlessly to around 550whp and were still super tight when i went to take the head off. They dont require retorquing at all. Second best stud out there second to only the Mazworx stud which is made out of just slightly stronger material.

I got my set off ebay. I think their prices went up a bit though from what ive read. I got mine for 110 shipped to my door off ebay. I think they are around $142 or so now.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Found them on THMotorsports

My set came without the torque specs as it was repackaged for intl. shipping.

One more thing please. Do I use any kind of lube or grease when I thread the studs into the block?

No, you thread them in dry, only lube the upper threads and the nuts.

I'm going to get a set of the golden eagles, but again what main cap bolts did you run?

Hey Ashton,

Ok so on my first try (before I saw your post) I used some copper paste and the studs really went in very hard. And they wouldn't all go in to the same depth. A few of them not going in past the top threads which was worrying.

Removed all of them and cleaned them up, as well as the holes in the block. Then I gently oiled them and re-inserted them. Again, they didn't all go in to the same depth. Had to use a fair amount of force using the allen bolts to turn them in to get past the shaft and into the thread part.

Right now I've got them sitting in the block, with the head on the block, washers intalled and nuts hand tightened. I managed to "just" get them deep enough for the area above the washers to only have thread left, and no shaft poking out.

Am I good to torque them down or did I do something wrong? I didn't expect them to go in this hard. The 4 studs in the corners of the block seem to go in easier. The centre two the hardest.

Yeah studs should go in dry. you might have had some damaged threads on the block. I would take them all out and clean them, dry them off and start over. The GE studs should have more than enough threads sticking out past the head for the washer and nuts with about a 1/4" of threads maybe a bit more sticking out of the nut.

I had a couple that got stuck when trying to thread them in but they freed up once i used the allen head. They should all bottom in the block with the same height sticking up. Depending on how your assembling the motor (whether your timing cover and chain guides are on) you will have to install the studs after putting the head on if the front cover is on already. Oh and your supposed to bottom them out and torque the studs to 10 ft-lbs before putting the nuts on. I forgot to include that in the original post.

I would just start over. Its key to install them correctly.

MR- Im using GTIR main bolts. Stronger material than the stock DE/DET bolts but same price. No studs being used on the mains. Not worth the hastle when the GTIR bolts are almost just as strong as the ARP's and doesnt distort the block or main caps.

hmmm

yeah I wonder if I have some damaged threads in the block.

I used quite a bit of force with the allen key and still, could only thread them in that far. Basically the centre studs have just all their top thread sticking out, while some of the more outward studs have gone in slightly deeper. The corner 4 studs went in the deepest.

There is only threads sticking out on top now with the washers installed. I was thinking this would be fine to torque down the nuts. I changed to GE from new OEM botls cause they also went into the block so damn hard on the previous assembly.

I doubt if removing the studs and reiinstalling them would see them going in any deeper than they currently are. I tried three times today. Bit of a bummer actually.