Thread: Golden Eagle Head studs. - 2 questions

Plain and simple the B16 GE studs are no longer produced. GE recommends the B18 studs for the B16 now. While they are just slightly longer they work just fine in the B16's however since the B16 studs were already long to begin with in the SR's the B18 ones i believe are too long and even with the washer on the threads end above the washer. So they are not proper.

If you want a good set of studs just get the Mazworx ones. They are slightly stronger than the GE studs yes they are almost twice the cost but so what, get the proper studs. I used the GE b16a studs in my motor and they were awesome but your now going to have to find them used somewhere if you want them.

yeah i just looked into it more, the b18 studs are .100 longer it may work.

at this point, I wouldn't chance it and I would pay more for the mazworx one.

Hopefully. I know on the b16 ones the threads for the upper section just come out of the hole in the head, the washer takes up the space and allows full thread contact for the nut. Its gonna be close thats for sure.

I thought I had seen someone mention you would have to use 2 washers on each but that doesnt seem very reliable to me and again why waste your time with it and not just get the Mazworx set if you cant find a used set.

I would like to see the B16 and B18 studs side by side. Might have to get on Honda-Tech and see if they have a pic.

I'm having a hard time justifying $200 for head studs on a motor that's not even making 400whp. It's quite sad there isn't an alternative, unless I go with OEM head bolts(which I have a new set of and was planning on using until I saw my engine was detonating).

-G

How about the ARP b16/b18 studs? Perhaps the B16 ones are longer than the SR20's.

Basically I'm hearing that the ONLY studs available are the $200 Maxworx studs because the ARP ones are improperly designed and the GE ones are no longer made. If so, this is a sad day in the parts world of SR20..perhaps it has already come and I'm just now realizing it. Cost too much to rebuild these engines for all of us broke ass and/or cheap SR20 owners.

-G

nope, arp b16/b18 studs are designed the same way and incorrectly just like for ours.

I ended up buying the Mazworx studs, and I love them.

One last question/chance on this..

ARP 204-4204..These are for the Jetta. These are full length and I was reading that these at least work for RWD SR20's, so I'd guess they'd also work for a FWD SR20?

Supposedly ARP purposely offers 'undercut' head studs for the SR20 as a 'feature' because in the ARP catalog the 102-4701 part # is listed as undercut(U/C):

"You will also note that ARP® offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more equalizes the "stretch" of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force—one that compensates for head gasket compression when the head is installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum sealing!"

But I guess that 'feature' makes the studs worse on the SR..bah, bad ARP engineering.

Update #2: In the PDF for the Undercut 102-4701 studs..it says that you should torque them to 90 foot pounds..this is different than what people say 80-85 ft lbs.

-G

Need a link to what your are talking about. If it works on the rwd, it works on the fwd.

Edit, part number comes up as a Sr head studs.