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Thread: Golden Eagle Head studs. - 2 questions

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Posts: 41-50 of 97
2011-06-08 18:04:08
#41
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Yeah, i think from the surface to the top of the hole is a little taller. Again it wasnt like mine were sticking out a crazy amount out the top of then nut, We are talking about maybe a 1/4" at the most if that. And i know mine were seated all the way because the block was cleaned. All the holes cleaned out with compressed air and cleaner and then torqued the studs down to 10 ft-lbs as the instructions say. So that possibility is out. I was using the 1.1mm headgasket as well. So that is some of it already.


I figured the difference was the head gasket and head. vet 1.5mm vs the 1.1mm you used. It did mess me up some because I was looking at your pics then I found coheeds pics.
2011-06-08 20:09:14
#42
Originally Posted by Doctor
Great. Go ahead and do it that way. Have fun screwing and unscrewing the studs. If you re-read my posts you"ll get all the answers



I had no problem installing the head after the studs were on...and with the timing chain...don't know what you did. That's kind of the point of having studs, it makes it easier to line up the gasket and head all at once, so why would you have to put the studs in afterwards?
2011-06-08 21:21:16
#43
Originally Posted by nsusammyeb
I had no problem installing the head after the studs were on...and with the timing chain...don't know what you did. That's kind of the point of having studs, it makes it easier to line up the gasket and head all at once, so why would you have to put the studs in afterwards?


^Good point.
2011-06-08 22:35:37
#44
Originally Posted by happynole
Just ordered a set from here for $116.60 shipped:

99 00 HONDA CIVIC SI Golden Eagle HeadStuds and MainStuds GEMB16-HSK


Did they cancel your order? They just cancelled mine b/c out of stock.
2011-06-09 08:56:39
#45
Originally Posted by nsusammyeb
I had no problem installing the head after the studs were on...and with the timing chain...don't know what you did. That's kind of the point of having studs, it makes it easier to line up the gasket and head all at once, so why would you have to put the studs in afterwards?


I would love to see a vid or something of how anyone manages to fit the head with the studs already installed in the block. Anyone who's fitted a head before knows how you have to angel the head to get the chain guide through it, and with the studs in place there simply doesn't seem to be room to move the head around to clear the timing chain guide. (the long curved one). The studs engage the head before it reaches the guide. If you can get the guide into the slot in the head before the head engages with the studs then you'd be fine, but that simply doesn't happen (with the ve head at least.)

I thought I was doing something wrong but derm even confirmed that the head needs to go on first.

So if there is another way I'd love to know about it....

As for lining up the headgasket, the dowels in the block do that already so it's not a real issue imo.
2011-06-09 09:13:31
#46
They are talking about having the front cover off the motor and the guides out and putting the head on then fitting up the guides and lastly putting the front cover on. Thats the only way it can possibly work. I hate putting the front cover on with the head on. Its a royal pain. Ive had to do it a couple times replacing the oil pump once and reinstalling the chain oiler pin after it popped out. Its a pain in the butt. The right and easy way is to just put the head on like normal and then put the studs in. There is nothing wrong with doing it that way. The head and gasket line itself up when you put it on the dowels on the block. At least a proper gasket is tight on the dowels. I know the VET gasket and Cosworth gasket both fit perfectly around the dowels and line up perfectly on the block. So if your having issues lining up the gasket then might want to look into a different gasket, a better gasket.

Anyways you should be good to go man.
2011-06-09 09:16:33
#47
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
They are talking about having the front cover off the motor and the guides out and putting the head on then fitting up the guides and lastly putting the front cover on. Thats the only way it can possibly work. I hate putting the front cover on with the head on. Its a royal pain. Ive had to do it a couple times replacing the oil pump once and reinstalling the chain oiler pin after it popped out. Its a pain in the butt. The right and easy way is to just put the head on like normal and then put the studs in. There is nothing wrong with doing it that way. The head and gasket line itself up when you put it on the dowels on the block. At least a proper gasket is tight on the dowels. I know the VET gasket and Cosworth gasket both fit perfectly around the dowels and line up perfectly on the block. So if your having issues lining up the gasket then might want to look into a different gasket, a better gasket.

Anyways you should be good to go man.



Yup that's the only way I also see it working.

ps: What's a chain oiler pin? You're making me think I forgot to install something on my motor now....
2011-06-09 09:22:41
#48
If you didnt see it in your pan then its probably still in place. Its an oiling pin that sits directly above the crank gear, its fed from the main oil galley going to the main bearings. It squirts the chain and gear with oil. The ve motors especially have issues with popping them out due to higher oil pressures that the ve oil pump provides. Especially for the turbo guys running thick oil like my 15w50 mobil 1 oil.

Im sure yours is fine if you didnt see it. They dont usually come out and are not removed during rebuilds and soo on.
2011-06-09 09:29:09
#49
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
If you didnt see it in your pan then its probably still in place. Its an oiling pin that sits directly above the crank gear, its fed from the main oil galley going to the main bearings. It squirts the chain and gear with oil. The ve motors especially have issues with popping them out due to higher oil pressures that the ve oil pump provides. Especially for the turbo guys running thick oil like my 15w50 mobil 1 oil.

Im sure yours is fine if you didnt see it. They dont usually come out and are not removed during rebuilds and soo on.


Cool thanks.

If you can - a pic will be awesome.
2011-06-09 09:32:18
#50


there ya go, i was gonna do it anyways. haha Its that pin with the little dot on the face right above the gear. Only thing wrong with this pic is the dot is supposed to be at 12 oclock position so the pin holes are facing both sides of the crank gear. The one in this pic has probably moved or was being reinstalled or something. As it sits in that pic the oil would be squirting upwards.
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