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Thread: polyurethane tranny mounts vs oem mount..

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Posts: 21-30 of 30
2010-12-18 01:05:15
#21
What the... who posts on SR20forum with a GA16? lol.

Yeah, poly is definitely overkill on that. You need to do a motor swap asap. Hey, you can get some poly's while you're at it!

I highly doubt B14 mounts will work. While the motor and transmission may be the same... the chassis is not.
2010-12-18 02:06:47
#22
Originally Posted by Speculative
I highly doubt B14 mounts will work. While the motor and transmission may be the same... the chassis is not.


i bet they are the same..
2010-12-18 11:34:37
#23
We don't have much experience (maybe none) with poly mounts and and an automatic. Sitting in drive at idle with the brake on (like at a stop light) might really exacerbate the vibration situation. I think OEM mounts are the right way to go for you. Gspec will give you a better price than your local dealer most likely.
2010-12-18 17:19:32
#24
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
i bet they are the same..

Only one way to find out.
2010-12-19 16:32:49
#25
Originally Posted by Shawn

I have considered going with three (3) poly mounts, and going back to the "big rubber fluid-filled" Nissan one. Ala Dave Coleman waaaaay back in SCC. You utilized poly in the mounts that resist the torque, use the Nissan "big rubber fluid-filled" one that transmits the majority of the vibration to the cabin.

But then again, I don't mind the vibration much and the Nissan "fluid-filled" mount is damn expensive to quell a bit of vibration.


On my SE-L I only have poly on the rear mount and the front dogbone. It transmits some vibes to the cabin but nothing like the full set I had on the NX. It resists engine movement just fine and give a more connected feeling to the motor while shifting throught the gears. With the radio cranked, I can still tell when it's time to shift without looking at the tach....it's definitely more of a "drivers" type mod. Full poly is a bit much for my taste in a daily car. But then again, I'm an old fart, as you know.

I may try out a poly tranny mount and leave the passenger side alone just to see the difference. I thought Dave C. only did the front and rear mount though?
2010-12-19 16:46:37
#26
Front and rear mount (as viewed from looking at the engine bay straight on) is the way to get most of the engine control you want without all of the vibration side-effects.
2010-12-20 04:44:04
#27
If I was you, I'd honsetly just put an autozone one in there. May not be the best quality, but it can handle all 90 ft/lbs of torque from the 1.6 automatic. I wouldnt go to a dealer for that.
2010-12-20 06:22:53
#28
Originally Posted by Isfahan
I think your perspective is a bit off with regards to rattles and such on a "regular" B13 because you have the stiffest, tightest B13 in existence.

You have a point sir. I thought specifically about this remark while I fired up and warmed up my Classic today for the first time in about a week.

There are simply no rattles or buzzes of any sort. None. Not at idle, 7,000 rpms, nor anywhere in between. Doesn't matter if it is cold, or fully warmed up.

Bummer.

Originally Posted by hammerin
On my SE-L I only have poly on the rear mount and the front dogbone. It transmits some vibes to the cabin but nothing like the full set I had on the NX. It resists engine movement just fine and give a more connected feeling to the motor while shifting throught the gears. With the radio cranked, I can still tell when it's time to shift without looking at the tach....it's definitely more of a "drivers" type mod. Full poly is a bit much for my taste in a daily car. But then again, I'm an old fart, as you know.

I may try out a poly tranny mount and leave the passenger side alone just to see the difference. I thought Dave C. only did the front and rear mount though?

Dave C did it with ES inserts, not full Prothanes, but the same idea.

IIRC he did 4 out of 4 mounts, did not like the vibrations, and so he replaced the "big fluid filled one" with a brand new Nissan mount and on that mount he left out the ES insert.

Like you, he was happy with the "mixed mounts" results. Most of the benefits of stiffer mounts, with very little if any unwelcome vibrations.

I've got the article and original SCC issue around here somewhere, but cannot find jack-shit since I moved. We are not fully unpacked yet.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
Front and rear mount (as viewed from looking at the engine bay straight on) is the way to get most of the engine control you want without all of the vibration side-effects.

There you go. Thank you Ben and Hank.

And one of those other mounts is the one that Dave kept stock. IIRC, that is one damn expensive fluid-filled mount. North of......$150.00?
2010-12-20 06:35:10
#29
Originally Posted by Speculative
I highly doubt B14 mounts will work. While the motor and transmission may be the same... the chassis is not.


You fail at this game... They are exactly the same with the exception of the rear of the car and the body and interior trim.
2010-12-20 06:37:35
#30
Originally Posted by LukaMcCloud
You fail at this game... They are exactly the same with the exception of the rear of the car and the body and interior trim.


Yep
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