Thread: Help! knocking noise only at certain rpms got louder

The bad thing is that I was using a torque wrench when the last 2 stripped out,
ill probably get some stainless bolts or grade 10 bolts from work tonight and try them

Yeah, the holes are plenty big enough to allow a larger bolt. You will need to just drill and tap the holes out. No big deal. As many times as ive had my crossmember off in the last 3 1/2 years, im very fortunate to not have stripped any out. I started to cross thread one after fighting with the crossmember with this 6 speed swap because I was using the altima mount bracket on the trans and it sits about an inch or so lower so the crossmember did not want to go straight so i forced it and one of my front bolts went in crooked. I just worked it and cut new threads on it and it was good to go.

Thats when i found out the whole problem was with the stupid trans side mount bracket. lol.

i just went to the marone dealer on us1 in ft. lauderdale while i was on break at school, ive been trying to find a black or silver 2005 altima se-r,
but in the pre owned area they have a 2000 sentra se 2.0, 5 speed, scratches and dings all over with 110,000 miles, they want $4900 for it, i started it up and listened to the engine (roller rocker) and the top end sounded the same as mine, maybe that is normal and im just used to the ga16 engine being quiet

anyway ill try tapping the crossmember bolts out when i get the car to my house on monday, and ill be back to driving that car to work instead of the cadillac, i just hope the rod bearings dont re-spin or ill be looking for a different car,

btw, im using 20w-50 to break the engine in, how long should i keep it in there for?
and should i switch back to the synthetic castrol edge ive been using?

They want way too much for that b15 se 2.0. lol I mean it would have to be gorgeous for that kind of money.

The cross member bolts are m10 x 1.25, I tapped it out to a 7/16 x 20 one size bigger, same thread pitch and I didn't have to drill them out,
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So far it held for 60 miles to work, but I lost 1/4 quart of oil in that time from the broken headgasket where the timing chain is, I need to find a thick needle and I'm going to try to inject rtv in the gap,
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So far I've got 90 miles on the rod bearings and no respinning bearings, knock on wood, there is something still making noise in the head though probably a lifter or something

Could it possibly be the chain making the noise? Before my tensioner pumped it up it clicked very loudly from the chain sticking to the gears.

It makes the sound about 1500 rpm and up, on. The way home from work this morning the noise started to get louder, I lost about 1/3 quart of oil on the way home, do you think its because its 20w-50? I usually run 10w-30
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The whole bottom of the car is COVERED in oil, and so are the belts, and brakes on that side, can't wait for this head swap (if it makes it till then)

Stop messing around with a crap motor. i applaud you for trying to "band-aid" the problem but please...

replace
the
engine
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they are cheap considering the repair you have done and will have to do if you dont rip out the stocker.

VE my friend!

That's the bad thing I don't have the time right now, between work, driving and school I might get 4 hours of sleep a night as it is, and because of this cold ill probably be working 7 days a week till march with no days off, I drive this car every day 150- 300 miles, so pretty much anything I do needs to be done in a day
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What's the total cost to swap a ve into a 1.6L?

you will just keep running into problems with your car if all you do is band-aid the problem.

take time off of work or something. a stock DE is cheap, ive seen them go for $200-$400 depending on seller/condition. Hell, i sold my old DE for $100 and its still going strong today lol!