Thread: Help! knocking noise only at certain rpms got louder

I got it back together today, primed it with the plugs out, put new ngk platinum's in, started it up and it didn't want to idle right till the 20w-50 got warm but after that it ran fine, im still having the tapping in the head I think its a stuck valve or lifter, especially since I heard the air go past the rings on #1 while i was turning it by hand, ill have to compression test it on monday if i get a chance
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I drove it around the block by the garage and I had 1 crossmember bolt that was stripped, but when I went over the railroad tracks the other one stripped out, anyone know the thread pitch and diameter of the bolts so I can get a heliocoil kit? or should I just tap it out to a bigger size and get some different bolts?

more than likely, if you pull the head off. this is what youll find. this exact same thing happened to me. it would only make noise above 4000rpm. the bearing on cylinder 2 spun. and this was the result of it. piston smacking the head

im guessing it would be bad to drive it like that then?

Take the valve cover off and have someone spin the engine (with a ratchet) while you watch the valve train. Easiest way to check it.

I did that and everything looks normal

Ve time? Lol

you can buy them from the dealer, or you can do what a lot of the b15 guys did to remove a lot of wheel hop. its called the $4 wheel hop aid. you stuff 3-4 metal washers where the rubber bushings go for the front and back, and tighten it up. reduces play with the motor moving on the crossmember. it does work, as it had it on my old b15.

Now 3 of the 4 crossmember bolts are stripped, and let loose when I went over the rr tracks earlier, what's the best way to fix it? Heliocoil? Tap it out bigger?

lol that sucks..

Wow, Mr. Over-Achiever. You could try a heli-coil. I don't know how well it will work though. They might just pull right out. The engine will put a lot of torsional stress on those bolts. I'd say best bet is to just go up a size.