Thread: Help! knocking noise only at certain rpms got louder

I was asking because I have never been this far into an engine before and wasn't sure if the plastigauge was necessary, because I've never used it before

well it will atleast tell you if its all within tolerance, you will have to look that up.. im sure the acl's will be fine tho

You do know the main bearings require you to pull your front and rear main seal to change and drop the crank correct? Not sure if you were planning ahead for this. I would just change the rods. The mains on SR's rarely and i mean very very rarely see any damage even ones starved of oil on several occasions. Ive ripped apart motors that had the oil pans soo badly dented that the motor lost pressure and spun all 4 rod bearings and the main bearings were still in perfect shape as well as the journals.

Its quite a bit more work to change mains out. Just order a set of ACL race bearings for the rods (the non coated ones) in the Standard size and be done with it.

Its normal for the rod to be able to move side to side. Its when you have noticable up and down play is when the bearing is worn.

Good luck putting it back together and you should be fine. Lube them up good with assembly lube as well. Only the surface that contacts the crank. Put the bearings on the rod dry.

didn't know that about the mains, well looks like ill have some new mains sitting in my garage for a while,

pic of spun #2


pic of worst main bearing


pic of junk in the oil pan


sorry about the pic quality, I really need to get a better camera phone

this whole holiday thing is messing me up, I have to wait till Tuesday or Wednesday for the parts, I'm supposed to be back at work on Monday night

Where can I get some new rubber bushings for the crossmember bolts, mine are nonexistant?

Well the nissan dealer f-ed me over they finally get the bearing on thursday I pick them up, go home and guess what? They gave me a set of mains. I returned them, tried to order the right ones, they told me I would have to bring the whole crank in for them to measure and get the right ones, I told them that they were stupid, and left. I called greg v and ordered the bearings no problem, see what I get for trying to save a days time, it ended up making me wait another week.
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I'm ready to get my car working again, I've been driving my g/f caddy which gets 12mpg, last week I spent $180 on gas getting to work and school, normally it would cost me about $100
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What are the torque specs in ft/lbs for the rod cap bolts and the main cap bolts, all I have is a ft/lb torque wrench, or would it be worth my while to get an inch/lb wrench?
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could this bearing spinning have been caused by the old problem I had when I put the engine in, or could have it been oil starvation?
Should I look into a bigger oil pump?
I use castrol edge synthetic (I think, its the one in the black bottle) could it have been the oil, I only had 2000 miles on the oil, I usually wait till 3500-4000 miles to change it.
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Is there any kind of break in I should do, or take it easy or anything, or just fill it up as normal with the synthetic and go on with the normal oil changes?

Today I put the acls in, and got as far as the upper pan, when I was spinning the engine by hand it seemed like air was going past the rings on cylinder #1, I bet that's not normal, I wonder if I have a sticking valve or a problem with a lifter?
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I forgot how much I really hate that 10mm bolt that holds the oil pickup tube on, I spent 30 mins trying to get it started then didn't get no where and called it a day
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According to the plastigauge, the oil gap in the rod bearings are good according to spec in this book I have (don't have the exact numbers in front of me
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What I've been told is to break the engine in with 20w-50 conventional for the first 3000 miles, then change it out to my normal synthetic, does that sound right?
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Wish me luck for startup tomorrow morning

Good Luck mang!

Did you do any machine work to this? Did you have it hot tanked/flushed?

When I spun a bearing I rebuilt my motor; 40 miles later it spun a bearing again. Interested to see how yours turns out. I'm so freaked out about even trying to rebuild mine again...

I am worried about that too (the car only went a half a mile after I heard it spin till I pulled it apart, most of that was coasting off of the exit),
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I didn't do anything to the motor, what does the hot tanking do to the engine? And what parts do I get hot tanked? I have my blown engine sitting in my garage I could probably take parts from if I need to
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I may be getting a lowport motor this weekend that I was going to put into my 1.6L, but if need be it will go in this car
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I drive a lot and I just need this car working now, I believe the oil gaps were .0035 but don't qutoe me on that, they were all the same