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Thread: Help! knocking noise only at certain rpms got louder

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Posts: 11-20 of 54
2010-11-24 06:51:12
Originally Posted by Mike22487
I don't have the money for another de or a ve, well till february when the 1.6 will get a ve with a P11 trans
I just need this engine to get me another 30,000miles till the ve is in,
I just need a straight answer if by just replacing those rod bearings the engine will work for a while longer

well its kind of a shot in the dark really, it depends if the crank has been damaged, or maybe the rods are out of round.. only way to tell is to tear into it
2010-11-24 19:20:21
your flirting with disaster its going to leave you strandad on the side of the road. Its def rod knock so stop driving it with that knock take the pans off and change the bearings with some acls
2010-11-24 19:25:08
Yeah if there is not much damage to the crank you should be fine unless there is an oiling problem (blocked passage) to that cylinder (guessing #3) then it will spin again and very soon after. Usually within a couple days of driving it if even that. If it last more than a couple days without spinning and making noise again then your probably good to go. Use a good oil and just dont beat on it and it should last.
2010-11-24 19:30:10
if the rod caps dont want to come off o go back on they are out of round so beware, i've seen it a few times now..
2010-11-25 02:15:19
I finally had time today at work to rip it apart, dropped lower pan plenty of aluminum shavings, pulled main bearings some wear but not too much, pulled rod bearing caps 1,3,4 fine,
#2 bearing was spun, with a little persuation got the bearing out, it was way thinner than the others but there isn't much wear on either contact surface, I think ill be ok
I'm not sure by what you meant by the rod caps not coming off easily but I loosened the nuts to the end of the threads and tapped evenly on both sides with a ball peen hammer and they came off, I would say they were a little harder to get off than the main bearings
I have rod bearings, and main bearings on order, ill have them on wednesday, and hopefully finished by thursday
2010-11-25 02:39:01
if they were out of round you would prolly know, especialy when you go to put them on the studs wont line up very well with the holes in the cap an it'll take some effort to get it to go on..
2010-11-25 04:11:21
They went back on easy, at least I know I'm good there now
2010-11-25 04:17:14
Originally Posted by Mike22487
They went back on easy, at least I know I'm good there now

awesome, this engine i tore apart had a #2 spun bearing so bad the bearing wasnt even there where i took the cap off.. there was nada.. crank suprisingly didnt look worn so i dont know if someone took it apart before me or what.. but the rod cap on #2 didnt wanna go back on, the studs just were not %100 straight an it took some hard tapping to get it on.. i scrapped that engine..
2010-11-25 04:52:01
Before I took the caps off I tried to wiggle the whole rod and cap to see if there was play and there was, is that normal to be able to wiggle them by hand? Or is that a sign the bearings just needed to be replaced?
Unfortunately I didn't have a feeler gauge to measure the endplay
When I put everything back to gether do I need to use that plastigauge stuff?
2010-11-25 04:56:19
from what i've seen a normal rod/bearing fully torqued will have Slight an i mean very slight side to side play.. a bad bearing will have much more side play an prolly up an down play as well.. wouldnt hurt to use the plasti gauge jus follow the directions an be sure not to turn the engine over with it in there.. not that hard.
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