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Thread: Engine stalling when cold + declutching

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Posts: 51-60 of 82
2011-01-11 13:53:59
#51
@ Will:

Originally Posted by M0J0
Right, still haven't taken a look at the IACV. However, the problem has changed a bit.

It's happened a few times now. When the powerloss happens, the revs will drop even when I keep on the throttle. When I let go of the throttle, it dies.
I have some experience in Nitro RCs, and it sounds like a mixture problem, stalling even when applying throttle.

Now, when I try to start her up again, it takes quite a while before she does. It's almost as if she doesn't get any fuel. After a few (10-15) seconds, she starts spluttering again, and then she starts.

I'm leaning toward a fuel related problem now, any ideas?


Cleaned the TB, no effect.
Replaced MAF, no effect.

What else can cause the engine to struggle to keep running, even when applying full throttle, and to stall when letting go of it?

I should notice that, when starting and them just letting it idle for a while, will result in a temporary rough idle (about 10-ish seconds after starting), which after a while goes away. Followed by normal throttle response, and no stalling whatsoever.

My fuelconsumption seems to have gone up as well.

Could it be that some fuel "leaks back" into the fuellines?

I don't seem to have a fuel leak, or at least I haven't seen a puddle forming.
2011-01-11 14:38:41
#52
Sounds like a TPS problem to me. The neutral switch also effects idle.

Dave
2011-01-11 14:51:52
#53
I know for a fact that my NS is dead. And now you mention the TPS, it DID give an odd reading when checked on NDS last summer (fluttering while idle).

EDIT: What about the fact that the problem goes away when the engine has been running for a while? Wouldn't it still be stalling if the TPS was bad, even when it's hot?
2011-01-11 16:23:39
#54
Sounds like the ECU is dumping way too much fuel when in cold idle mode and you are essentially flooding out. Unfortunately, I've got nothing else. Check out this thread and see how much his problems correspond to yours:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/sentra-se-r/40956-gonna-bang-my-head-against-wall-jan-10-2011-new-symptom.html
2011-01-11 17:02:29
#55
Originally Posted by M0J0
I know for a fact that my NS is dead. And now you mention the TPS, it DID give an odd reading when checked on NDS last summer (fluttering while idle).

EDIT: What about the fact that the problem goes away when the engine has been running for a while? Wouldn't it still be stalling if the TPS was bad, even when it's hot?


Not necessarily. The TPS is a potentiometer which can be effected by temperature. A poor connection when cold might be OK when warmed up. Regardless of the temperature, if it's fluttering while stationary or skipping/jumping around while moving, it's going to give you problems.

Cheers,
Dave
2011-01-11 17:22:58
#56
Okay, thanks. Dave, related to the comment about replacing the ECU, when Calum installed his RTv2 DB in my ECU (not the one currently in the car), was the original data lost? Or did he just circumvent it with moving a jumper?
2011-01-11 17:45:44
#57
Originally Posted by M0J0
Okay, thanks. Dave, related to the comment about replacing the ECU, when Calum installed his RTv2 DB in my ECU (not the one currently in the car), was the original data lost? Or did he just circumvent it with moving a jumper?


The original bin is still there, just circumvented, as you say, by a jumper.

Dave
2011-01-12 03:06:48
#58
Originally Posted by dfddfd2
Sounds like a TPS problem to me. The neutral switch also effects idle.

Dave


I should add that the ECU depends on the neutral switch, and the CLT to be above 140F, to properly calibrate the throttle closed TPS voltage.

Dave
2011-01-20 19:25:36
#59
Ok, TPS voltages:

0.45 when closed
4.0 fully opened

Installed a different one:

0.45 closed
4.06 opened

Will see results tomorrow, but I started her after installing, and things seemed unchanged (it was a cold start).
2011-01-21 15:00:15
#60
Well... No result. Still the low idle (500 or less), and stalling/powerloss when cold...
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