Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Engine stalling when cold + declutching

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 61-70 of 82
2011-01-22 18:28:03
#61
Anyone?
2011-01-22 20:12:37
#62
Any codes in the ECU?
2011-01-22 21:20:34
#63
Haven't tested yet. Should do that XD
2011-01-24 19:25:36
#64
Checked my engine oil after I heard some squeaking from the engine. Was under minimum. Let's see what this does. She also heated up pretty quickly, in a few minutes, instead of the 10-15 it normally takes...
2011-02-07 23:49:49
#65
Originally Posted by dfddfd2
I should add that the ECU depends on the neutral switch, and the CLT to be above 140F, to properly calibrate the throttle closed TPS voltage.

Dave


Could you explain this a little further? I thought the TPS was just a variable resistor?

Also, could a faulty engine temp sensor cause these problems?

Problems have gotten a little better now the temps have gone up.
2011-02-08 01:51:55
#66
Originally Posted by M0J0
Could you explain this a little further? I thought the TPS was just a variable resistor?

Also, could a faulty engine temp sensor cause these problems?

Problems have gotten a little better now the temps have gone up.


The TPS is a variable resistor, and when it changes with throttle movement, the voltage across it changes, which is measured by the ECU.

Cheers,
Dave
2011-02-08 09:10:18
#67
I know, but how does the ECU calibrate the TPS, and why does it need the CLT and Neural switch?

Reason I ask is that someone I know (who also knows quite a bit), told me that the Neutral Switch has nothing to do with the TPS, it only causes the ECU to switch to its mappings for use while idling.
2011-02-08 16:10:06
#68
Originally Posted by M0J0
I know, but how does the ECU calibrate the TPS, and why does it need the CLT and Neural switch?

Reason I ask is that someone I know (who also knows quite a bit), told me that the Neutral Switch has nothing to do with the TPS, it only causes the ECU to switch to its mappings for use while idling.


The ECU keeps track of the minimum TPS voltage it sees, and, provided the transmission is in neutral, the maximum within a certain range of battery voltage, RPM, and CLT. This is how the ECU determines that the throttle is closed, which allows it to calibrate the throttle closed voltage. This also lets the throttle closed voltage drift up and down with age and temperature.

A faulty CLT (aka ECT) could cause the problems you're having, but so could a faulty TPS, or a disconnected/faulty neutral switch, which would keep the ECU from calibrating the TPS closed voltage correctly.

Have you checked the ECU for codes?

Cheers,
Dave
2011-02-08 16:28:21
#69
Will check it this sunday.
2011-02-10 12:02:15
#70
Originally Posted by M0J0
Will check it this sunday.


Me too =)

Interesting because with having a faulty neutral switch and ECU not seeing TPS closed signal, engine rpm can drop way to slow when you press the clutch pedal. Also the ride can become a little bumpy, indeed seems to react differently with different ambient temperature.

However I ordered a new tempsensor last week and bring it with me sunday and hoping you guys will show me how I calibrate the TPS closed signal.

My car does stall sometimes, especially when it became colder quickly with a lot more moisture, usually it stalls 6 times in a row on a meeting, then it is gone for weeks.

Yet the behaviour looks a little random.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top