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Thread: Converting valve cover from bolt to stud configuration

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Posts: 1-10 of 13
2008-02-28 10:11:00
#1
Converting valve cover from bolt to stud configuration
Probably a stupid question, but I did a little searching on both sites and didn't really find what I was looking for.

I'm curious if anyone has changed their valvecover attachment method on a lowport, from bolts that screw into the head, to studs that come out of the head and secure the valvecover with nuts/existing washers?

I'm pretty sure I have seen this on other heads, but none specifically on the lowport motor.

Basically, I'm trying to avoid stripping out threads on the head anymore. Currently I've got four bolt holes that are stripped in the worst locations, which cause the motor to seep a tiny bit. I thought about re-tapping the threads, which would mean I need to go with a different size bolt, if I don't use inserts like helicoils.

I'd rather just have studs so that they're easier to replace if I strip them, rather than try to fix the head.

Thanks in advance.
2008-02-28 10:20:21
#2
the studs on my DE and GTIR heads that hold on the valve covers can be removed easily with a 10mm deep socket. you should be able to buy a whole set of washers, nuts, and studs from greg at GSPEC easy! just hit him up.
2008-02-28 10:35:08
#3
Sweet, I'll check into it. I think the biggest problem is that some of the ports on the head are stripped, so I may need to re-tap them, and go with a slightly larger size

I may just end up taking the head to a local shop, and letting them do the re-tap, worst case scenario.
2008-02-28 19:48:06
#4
tekkie, use a helicoil on the stripped one........its easy and the best option.
2008-02-28 20:18:13
#5
isn't the thread like 8x1.25m?
2008-02-28 21:10:57
#6
Tekkie,

Take this with a grain of your favorite seasoning supplement

my opinion would be to find yourself some fresh Nissan Bolts, or Allen Bolts w/ the same thread, use a small amount of anti seize, and don't put as much torque on them... Forget what the fsm, or what the hayne's says on the torque specs, hand tight for years and multiple valve cover swap, and cam swaps and no leaks, no stripped threads, no more broken bolts.

Switching to all Acorns I don't think is worth the work and trouble of loosing them damn things all the time. Again, just my opinion... thats not worth very much
2008-02-29 15:39:54
#7
They are interchangable. I have 3 or 4 on mine like that because the bolts snapped when trying to remove them. I got ones from an older sentra at the u pull it. The bolts thread in and the valve cover then goes onto the bolts that protrude. then you secure them with the nut.
2008-02-29 15:59:28
#8
That's the thing though, the threads in the head are stripped. I guess I'll go with the anti-sieze trick, and helicoil inserts for the stripped threads
2008-02-29 22:39:28
#9
helicolis are your best/strongest option........not to mention only option if you want to have all matching hardware. then junkyard it up and find all the studs you can.....then go to home depot and buy some funky freash acorn nuts dripping with chrome, get new washers from the stealership. then paint your valve cover black and BLAM your ****s lookin noice.



and i notice your getting a pathfinder. tekkie take my advice and get an 07 V8 pathfinder. those things have BALLS.
2008-03-01 02:08:20
#10
Originally Posted by classicaddict
helicolis are your best/strongest option........not to mention only option if you want to have all matching hardware. then junkyard it up and find all the studs you can.....then go to home depot and buy some funky freash acorn nuts dripping with chrome, get new washers from the stealership. then paint your valve cover black and BLAM your ****s lookin noice.



and i notice your getting a pathfinder. tekkie take my advice and get an 07 V8 pathfinder. those things have BALLS.


It's for the wifey bro Besides, I'd rather see 17~18mpg than 11~13mpg. Don't get me wrong, I've test driven one and I really wanted it, but I have to think of whats best for wifey
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