Thread: ecu gone bad?

well my gf's VE G20 is pissin me off again! frickin check engine lights been coming on again.. Before it was cause the temp sensor was messed up.. fixed that.. now when it does it the engine becomes unpredictable an is sometimes totally undrivable.. some times turning the car off an on will fix the issue.. other times disconnecting the battery or hooking up the consult will make it go away also..

i tryed using nissan datascan and conzult to pull codes but they wont even connect to the ecu while the lights on, it says ecu is not responding or some crap.. but if i turn the car off the light goes away an Then it'll let me connect.. i goto check codes an Nothin..

i changed the maf to the one i had on my car before i put the n60 on and changed the distributor (the old one was bad an i had to fully retard it to get 15*'s timing) and it still did it.. so then i put the stock g20 ecu in an havent had a problem since.. so i think the calum basic is toast or atleast the ecu is.. if thats the case i need to have the calum board swapped to the other ecu lol

have you checked the board in the ECU for physical burn marks? Mine went bad last weekend and it was the MAF/Sensor grounds that burnt inside the ECU. Even after fixing it the car would still run in limp mode. A new ECU fixed my problem.

i havent looked yet but im going to.. im sure the calum board is still good so i'll have it swapped into this other ecu i have..

What does it run like when the car is undriveable?

Ive had two ecus take shits on me. its very common.

One of the main reasons i went standalone with my aem.

Stratton.

sometimes you cant even touch the gas or it'll stall. unplugging the maf makes no diff an it'll rev over 3k with it unplugged.. my gf says when it comes on while shes driving it bucks an jerks and idles really high

well i took the top an bottom off so i could see both sides of the board an theres no burnt marks, or brown marks or anything out of the ordinary.. the calum board is firmly inplace and the solder looks perfect..

gonna throw this in my buddys 16ve an see how it does..

My first guess is a connection problem to the ecu if you aren't getting any codes.

If the ECU checks out I would check the wires to the dist, to the maf, tps, O2 or anywhere along. Check the Det sensor too as well as vac leaks. Make sure the shielding is all there to the above and grounded. In the off chance you aren't running NGK plugs swap those. All of those could cause the bucking and prolly a few other things.

it only drives funny or bucks when the CEL is on.

i've had the stock g20 ecu in for a few days an it seems to be fine, but maybe just tweeking the wires at the ecu did something or maybe the ecu wasn't tight enough (although it appeared to be)

i will keep an eye on it an if it keeps happening then i bet its something to do with wiring..

on a side note: the alternator plug that goes into the alt broke an i jus have the wires pushed on there, maybe the rattle from the engine (blown mounts) is causing them to vibrate an cause issues? (i just picked one up to fix it yesterday)

I'm pretty sure the Alternator wires will only make the battery light come on and not the CEL.