Thread: ATI Super Damper (racing crank pulley) for Nissan SR20 FWD Engines

These issues tend to show up on road race engines more than drag cars. Prolonged (like 20 minutes) high rpm use and heavy cornering loads seems to be the recipe.

As expected. Undamped torsional harmonics don't cause main bearing wear. Main cause for that is unbalanced rotating assembly and overtightened accessory belts.

This was my thoughts too.
There was another thread about this awhile ago.
I decided I would rather give up a HP or two for longevity,since the VE has a 4CW crank..

Forum sponsor mazworx has them for sale.
I prefer the street version btw.

Bump.

Despite the fact that an ATI Super Damper is not a necessity on a VE engine, I would still be interested in hearing if anybody on this forum has them on their VE and their impressions on how it changed the feel of the engine. More importantly at high RPM's and also any dyno numers before and after. I understand this is not a power adder per say but a smoother running crank at high RPM's would seem to increase the engine's ability to perform within it's own limitations, if ever so slightly.

At $500+ for an ATI damper and 300-400 for others, it seems that most could benefit from just buying a new OEM/stock replacement VE crank pulley. I believe they go for $175-200ish depending? I gather that a 12-14 yr. old crank pulley would not be as successful at dampening crankshaft waves/vibrations as a brand new one would. I guess it all depends and the abuse the 'old' crank pulley has seen. I have seen some that look bad, with dings, dents and possibly even warped?

Anybody have any NEW thoughts on these two points?


I was going to post links from other threads about dampening crank vibrations vs undampened solid pulleys but that is not why I bumped this. The debate has been had thousands of times on many different forums. I am more looking for user feedback on the VE's. Don't really hear much if anything at all.

I plan to rev my build to 10k, I was reving my DE to 9 on occasion with an aluminum pulley and had no issues at all. On this build im using a stock VE pulley just for the extra harmonics dampening.

I know the B series guys usually always chose to run an ATI or Fluidamper pulley because they have issues shattering oil pump gears. However I will say this. I believe and from what Ive read it has to do with alignment of the oil pump. If you have it even slightly off center it can cause issues with the pump shattering. I believe the honda oil pumps dont have any alignment dowel pins like our pumps do as well. So that could be the issues as im sure there is some movement that can happen and off centering can occur when installing the pump.

I havent seen any issues with ours with people breaking oil pumps. I mean cory was reving his all the way to right at 10k with his 2.3 and i believe 9500 with the 2.4 stroker. I dont know what pulley he was using though.

I think ill be fine with the stock VE pulley. I definitely dont want to use the aluminum pulley at that rpm though.

overpriced...makes people say "wow, he spent too much on that."

Or, they say, "That guy was smart enough to spend a fraction of the $15k he spend prepping the race engine he built to protect it."

If I ever go with different pullies, I'll be using one of the ATIs.

$500 for a pulley...c'mon. Absolutely ridiculous. Pay to play is an understatement when it costs as much as a set of pistons or rods.

I think the trade off and peace of mind makes it well worth it.