Thread: Rev limit, Tomei Procams and oil burning (check #1 and #3)

Where are you from?

Im telling you again. It makes no sense to rev RR over stock rev. limiter. Believe me... you will not make any power there, it will cost you extra money for nothing. Everybody will tell you the same. Raised rev limiter to 7500rpm with Nistune will be just fine, but everyhing above will be very dangerous and non sense anyway.

185-200HP isnt big problem.

You will need:

Header - done
Exhaust - done
Flywheel - done
UR 2pcs set - done
Bigger intake piping with velocity stack and JWT filter (AEM is only 2.5", get 3" which is much better)
Cams - i can recommend JWT S3R
Nistune to tune it

My friend had Almera GTi with same engine.. he had header, exhaust, KN filter and JWT S3R cams and he made 175HP with stock ecu.

With mods mentioned above you can hit 180HP on stock ECU. With SR16 pistons (98-99RON fuel is fine) and good tune you will be in 190-200HP range.

I made 190HP in highport SR20DE with same/similar mods, basic tune (untuned) and stock 10:1 CR pistons.

Hi again!

I'm from Spain.

I trust you I definitely know I won't make power at 7500rpm, but as I'm gonna put springs and retainers with the cams I'd like to get benefit of that and increase the rev limit till 8k (from what I've read it seems the safe limit for the RR, correct me if I'm wrong).

That coming along with a nistune/remap of the ecu (no extra money for just moving the limiter, it's an extra ).

Probably I won't rev always till there, but look these pics:

Currently, if I shift at:



revs fall till:




If I could go 700rpm further, they would fall at around 6.2k, power peak point. Maybe it's a stupid idea :S

Anyway, thanks a lot for the info about bhp figures. Do you have some dyno graph?

Even if you make peak power at 6500rpm, its useless to rev over 7500rpm. Its physics, your car will be slower with overreving... if you want to be closer to your peak power after shift, get shorter gears in transmission. I was making 168HP at 7100rpm (highport engine, RR peak much sooner) with light mods and wasnt even revving that high. I was revving to around 7600-7700rpm at most. Just make no sense.. no power/torque there, car is slower.. and its not even good for your RR 4cw bottom end.
If you do all the mods, you can dyno the car and you will see its non sense to rev there.

Btw. did you fing anybody who makes springs/retainers for RR? I didnt found anybody.

My thread: http://www.sr20-forum.com/all-motor/31403-10-1-cr-de-bolt-ons-dyno.html

Interesting . I was about to say the same: once the mods are done will take it to the dyno and study the graph

Are springs and retainers different between RR and non RR engines? Tomei list the same reference (173004) and also Catcams (PAC-S90010).

I like your graph .

Thanks for all the advices, very appreciated.

There isn't much info on the Catcams... A few guys on our forum are going for the 520 profile Catcams too, but who cares about dyno figures.. Just get some and make your own dyno figures.
You won't find much information on NPOC, there's never many crazy engine builds going on on there.. Get yourself onto Almera Owners Club.. There's big DE and VE builds going on at the moment..
I can tell you now... I would not bother with S3R's.... I had them in my fully bolted on DE, sold them recently, and the difference was hardly noticeable. They are too small. Hell, my Idle was still even smooth !
As you said.. You don't need retainers with the Catcams.. Their own valve spring works with the standard retainer.
I was gonna go with them, until I swapped to a Highport head as I bought some ITB's so now I'm Non Roller Rocker.
And for the VE bum boys.... Here in the UK... The fastest SR20 N/A of all time.. Is still a DE....
Joe

You are convincing

Unfortunately, interesting content on the AOC is just for members. In the free section I've just found some good reviews on the Poncams.

It's weird most of the Catcams have those aggressive durations and relatively small lifts (lower than Poncams).

I like these p/n:


1600518

INTAKE EXHAUST

clearance [cl] 0.00mm 0.00mm
duration [0.1mm+cl] 298° 289°
duration [1.0mm+cl] 248° 240°
valve lift [cl=0] 11.60mm 11.10mm
cam lift 7.00mm 6.70mm
peak angle 106° 106°
timing [1.0mm+cl] 18/50° 46/14°
lift at TDC [cl=0] 2.70mm 2.25mm




1600516

INTAKE EXHAUST

clearance [cl] 0.00mm 0.00mm
duration [0.1mm+cl] 289° 282°
duration [1.0mm+cl] 240° 232°
valve lift [cl=0] 11.10mm 10.60mm
cam lift 6.70mm 6.40mm
peak angle 108° 108°
timing [1.0mm+cl] 12/48° 44/ 8°
lift at TDC [cl=0] 2.00mm 1.65mm



If you could find (or paste ) any review of them, that would be great. I'm afraid with such big degrees they lower a lot the dynamic compression and sr16ve pistons will be a must.

I'd also prefer if they were a simple drop-in (like Tomeis), and these seem to need a lot of adjustment.

I'd let you know what I decide

You can use aftermarket VE springs in your RR with no modification if you cant find any springs made specifically for the RR.

Also, revving to 8k is perfectly fine on the RR bottom end, it's the top end that is iffy. (IE throwing rockers)

Interesting, thanks for the info.

I've heard 8k is the limit for the rockers.

Knowing that, I've changed my mind again and won't buy springs/retainers unless I go with an aggressive cam (I mean, not with the Poncams).

I need to decide now:

Poncams: $515 shipped + customs fees = 560-650 usd (depending on how much customs want to steal me)

Cat Cams (any model) : 615 usd shipped (+ $250 of the needed springs).

Both options have pros and cons

Poncams are SMALL dude seriously....
There's dudes on our forum running poncams with near 200hp though.. But they are stuck in the 15s 1/4 mile bracket ??? Do you really wanna do that after spending £££££??
BTW catcams are not $615 they are £350 which is less than $500 man.
Joe

Where? Take into account shipping costs to Spain.

Cheaper site I've found is a German store but including shipping it comes near to what I've said.

Spanish CatCams distributors are way more expensive.

I've read you explaining the same argument in the AOC (quarter mile vs dyno figures). Obviously, I totally agree with you , but take into account this will be a daily driver (don't want to raise idle till 1600 rpm to keep it stable, it must pass MOT, have some power -not so much really - below 5000 rpm) and specially, I want them to make power without a lot of dyno tuning and also without increasing the compression by changing pistons (I will probably do it, but just in case).

Will stock hydraulic lifters be ok with CatCams agressive camshafts?

Good thing about the Poncams is that, in spite of having small durations, they have pretty high lifts (higher than Catcams 289/282).

Thanks for the help, Almera's guys rock