Join Date: 2008-03-15 Location: The Island of Enchantment and Racers! Posts: 222 Trader Score: 0 (0%)
i converted mine to manual rack from b13 very rare to find but i'm still running the p/s pump as a tensioner because i don't have the time right now to measure the belt size from the crank pulley to w/p pulley for a gspec VE pulley if anybody know the correct part number PM me. Thanks! and if anybody need pics of info on how to convert to manual rack feel free to PM me!
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My Car ran 14.3@97mph (183WHP 143TQ) >> Stock Internals SR20VE, Stock DE Flywheel, Gspec crank Pulley, ACT HD PP and Street Disk, PVC Intake, Tri-Y Header, 2.5 Exh cut-out, Chipped Alfsentra ECU.
No tensioner, you tension the belt onto the water pump pulley by leaving one bolt in the pulley and then carefully pry the pulley onto the guide on the water pump then put the rest of the bolts in and tighten them donw.
Only issue i ever had with doing this was that after time the belt will stretch a bit and it will loosen up. So just keep an eye out for it. Best solution is to get an electric water pump or move the alternator to the back using Andreas Miko's kit. I prefer the electric water pump. I did the whole belt thing to start then went to the electric pump. Electric pump FTW
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1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
JMS Racing tuned to 716whp, 423wtq at 29psi
10.5 @ 149.2mph to date I believe the fastest trap speed SE-R, Much more to come with some changes!
I took an old pump i had that was loud and removed the guts out of it and used that so i can still tension my water pump/ps belt and powersteering is no longer there. Ive been running like that for about 3 months now with no issues. Its easy and costs nothing.
Originally Posted by TheRealNighthog yeah if you have limp noodle arms.
It will also be different while driving it without PS than it feels sitting in the driveway with the motor off. That is if you don't try and turn on the spot and instead turn the wheel as you start to move the car forward or back.