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Thread: Slight fuel in oil

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Posts: 11-20 of 20
2010-10-05 23:32:57
#11
what was compresion like ? Also what injectors are in the motor ? stock or bigger (red /purple /grey ) ?quick way to check for leaky injector is pull the rail off and cycle key on and off check for fuel out of the bottom of the injectors .Or could be running rich but that wouldnt be posible if its not fouling plugs ..
2010-10-05 23:37:26
#12
I did tinker with the distributor and idle control yesterday and also drained the oil. it was idling better after the adjustments but further testing is in order for later this week.
2010-10-05 23:38:42
#13
If it's to the point where the fuel is mixing with oil I don't believe an inoperable 02 sensor will make it dump that much fuel. From what he is describing the mix is probably getting to the point where the oil might start getting washed out. I could be very wrong though.

Also check if the injectors click open and close, just apply positive to one terminal and negative to the other terminal and the injetor should click. Ought to be quite audible.
2010-10-05 23:40:08
#14
Originally Posted by tsuruser
what was compresion like ? Also what injectors are in the motor ? stock or bigger (red /purple /grey ) ?quick way to check for leaky injector is pull the rail off and cycle key on and off check for fuel out of the bottom of the injectors .Or could be running rich but that wouldnt be posible if its not fouling plugs ..


stock red injectors. haven't tested compression yet, on my list of "to-dos". I'll be pulling the rail this week to check for leaks. I had a fowled plug on my last sr20, turned out one injector was spraying too much, replaced it and ran fine. so that was one of the first things i checked. thanks!
2010-10-05 23:41:33
#15
Originally Posted by P10FTW
If it's to the point where the fuel is mixing with oil I don't believe an inoperable 02 sensor will make it dump that much fuel. From what he is describing the mix is probably getting to the point where the oil might start getting washed out. I could be very wrong though.

Also check if the injectors click open and close, just apply positive to one terminal and negative to the other terminal and the injetor should click. Ought to be quite audible.


injectors are clicking. also pulled the plug on each one and idle dropped with every one.
2010-10-07 05:51:57
#16
compression in all 4 cyl quickly rises to 180 psi. none of the injectors or seals are leaking. disconnecting the maf does not affect idle but reconnecting it does. if i have time tomorrow i'll check the bulb in the cluster, i'm leaning towards the bulb is missing and the check engine light should be on.
2010-10-10 18:42:05
#17
did a self-diagnosis on the ecu, no codes. the chain guide on the front side of the motor is loose, i'll replace this then check/adjust timing.
2011-05-14 05:22:34
#18
Here is a continuation on this thread. I pulled the plugs which were PFR6B-11 and swapped in some old PFR5B-11 and it idles smooth, no misfire or "backfire", no hesitation, nothing. Has anyone had this problem with the colder plug?

bump
2011-06-04 19:55:22
#19
bump
Alright, I want to see what y'all think.

I switched to a hotter plug, (heat range of 5) that I pulled from my old motor and the rough idle stopped and the motor seems to be burning more fuel now, but I'm hearing detonation. I'm not sure what the timing is because the marks don't line up but remain stable, so it could be at tdc on exhaust cam, but the dizzy is close to center on adjusting bolt.

Here's what I've done:
checked wires
changed plugs
changed dizzy
changed coil
checked injectors
checked vacuum lines

Here is what has been done before I bought it:
cone filter intake
header w/cat removal
egr system removal

My research is pointing towards:
Higher octane fuel
switch back to colder plug, possibly 2 heat range difference
knock sensor
egr problem
carbon deposits

Thanks for reading and responding!
2011-09-23 22:31:16
#20
please delete thread
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