Thread: What happened here?

Ive resurfaced one before as long as the machinist puts a step on it with the center being raised, it will be fine.

You are not getting the point. Yes you can resurface a flywheel....you are actually supposed to do it everytime you put a new clutch in.

But in the original posters case the flywheel has been damaged from excessive heat. The metal has been deformed/warped and it will never be the same. If you resurface that flywheel it will most likely slightly warp/deform again after it gets hot. All it takes is a couple hundreths of and inch and it is ruined.

Not to stray too much off topic but I feel the same thing happens to most engine/drivetrain parts once they get too hot. For example...I feel that once an engine excessively overheats it will never be the same. It doesn't matter if you mill the head/block, put in a new headgasket, etc. Once an engine has stayed at the hot mark for a even a short amount of time things get messed up..metal gets weak, etc. Like I said...all it takes is a couple hundreths of an inch...especially when you are dealing with the head mating surface.

i agree i wouldnt try to resurface the flywheel or if you do resurface i would definitly be weary of it. flywheels are expensive but replacing clutches after being glazed over is expensive too.

It was odd, in first and second gear it would seem like the wheels would be spinning but didnt sound like wheel spin. It was more like the sound of brakes being applied. So I thought the clutch may be slipping so I did the 25mph in 5th gear test and it was fine. Could the clutch let go becuase there was too much TQ too fast?

Regardless replaced the clutch and flywheel and now my imput bearing is making noise. Parting out the turbo stuff and selling the car. Sick of shit breaking as soon as you fix something else. Subie time!

The sound is weird, but the other symptoms sound like clutch slipping. Did it smell like clutch/brakes?

Weird.... Did you ever reach 5,000+ rpm? Probably not... That's where you'll have the most problems with clutch slipping, because torque peak is around there. Maybe had you done the test in 3rd or 4th and been at 5,000 - 5,500 rpm you'd have found the slippage.

No. Too much torque too fast makes no sense. Too much torque, yes... But not too fast. Like I said, had you tested in 3rd (and had traction) at 5,000 rpm you'd probably have found the slippage.

Damn man... Well. Good luck.

And for reference, if brake rotors are warped, you can indeed turn the warpage out, if there is enough material left to begin with. Both the armada and wrx have had warped rotors that were turned by me, and are now fine.

The key is to resurface/scuff all mating parts, IE flywheel, pressure plate, and disc.

Oh, and the wear looks like a defective pressure plate.

Cliff, read the link in post #20. If you've overheated the rotors and this caused pad material transfer, you're likely to experience that for the life of the rotor no matter how well you resurface it because the metal composition and heat resistance has changed causing the problem to continue to happen over and over again.

If you believe Stop Tech's findings.

I don't think that's the issue though.

Warped pressure plate would show hotspots on high areas
Warped disk would show hotspots all the way around both the pressure plate and flywheel
Warped flywheel would show hotspots on the high areas.

I find it unlikley that the pressure plate and flywheel were warped in the same exact spots considering the flywheel was resurfaced and the pressure plate was brand new from JWT. Unless the clutch disk would flex each time it was engaged?

Ben, personal experience. Haven't had any issues since, in the months following turning my rotors on the vehicles. Absolutely zero.

Hobbs, just giving my opinion. It's what it looks like to me, is all.