Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Overheated last night - doesn't want start today

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 31-40 of 79
2010-08-28 03:44:21
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The fact that it's hard for the car to start means you should be doing a compression test. Does it take a bit of time and maybe some throttle to start the car now?

Its starts right away, but it take more throttle than normal to keep it going. I would floor it and rev would not climb and then floor it again and the revs would climb. Let off the gas and it barely idles before stalling.

2010-08-28 04:31:46
Why haven't you done a compression test yet?
2010-08-28 04:48:38
Originally Posted by yuadman
Drove home last night and temps rose to 210F+. Came off the highway and let it cool down. Got back on the highway and drove home. Temps stayed over 210F for about 15 minutes then suddenly went up to 217F. At this point I pulled over and shut it off. I guess I should of towed it at this point. I was only 1.6 miles from home - so I let it cool down for 40 minutes. Started it up and temps rose to 210F within 1 minute. When I got off the highway I shut it off, put it in neutral and coasted when possible. Did the start, coast thing 3 times until I got home.

Got up this morning to put it in the garage and it didn't want to start. Revved it up and it idle for about 30 seconds. Is this the end of another sr20de? I feel sick!!!

Whats the next step. Compression test?

(never give up - never surrender)

Curious on the day of yesterday afternoon I warmed up my car too, from one moment to another, the car was right!

I thought my engine after the heater was not going to serve wine last night to review and a mechanic told me that apparently was the thermostat, and the AutoZone and was closed early today and take it away because I was not warmed up! !

There are no traces of water in my oil!
2010-08-28 11:55:33
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Why haven't you done a compression test yet?

1. I don't have the compression test tool.

2. I was at work all day Friday.

3. I have a wife and 18 month old baby thats priority number 1.

4. We have 3 vehicles. So I'm not in a real rush to fix it.

I want get to the bottom of this ASAP, but I have to balance family life and work. I have family picnic most of today and then we're going to see some friends Sunday afternoon. So I have a 2 hour window when my son takes his afternoon nap on Sunday.

2010-08-28 12:03:19
That's cool man, I'm just saying we can speculate all day. The compression test is going to tell you which path to take quite easily. The cheap one at the auto store is $25 and all you need.

Let us know how it goes when you get around to it.
2010-08-28 12:19:53
If you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running:

Try disconnecting the TPS and running the car.

If there's no change, then disconnect the MAF and reconnect the TPS, and then try running the car.

If the idle greatly improves we know where to look.
2010-08-28 12:47:45
Originally Posted by yuadman
I have a device that monitors several things. I forgot what it called. I purchased it from a list member who makes them from Australia back in 2005. The cluster gauge was reading normal.

Originally Posted by yuadman
Yes - I had to rev it up to get it to idle before it dies once my foots off the gas pedal.

What does this device show for coolant temp with engine cold, key on, engine off?

I had a bad engine coolant temp sensor on mine that read nearly 300 F on a cold start. The ECU was trying to supply fuel based on that operating temp,
so I had to give it throttle to keep it running.
Disconnected the engine temp sensor and it ran O.K. on a cold start.

From the FSM:
"When engine coolant temperature sensor output voltage is below
or above the specified value, water temperature is fixed at the preset
value as follows:
Just as ignition switch is turned ON or Start: 86 F
More than 6 minutes after Ignition ON or Start: 176 F
Except as shown above: 86 - 176 F"

From FSM - Engine Stalls when Engine is Cold:
Check IACV-Air Regulator & AAC valve
Perform power balance test (disconnect each injector connector one at a time
to see if any cylinder does NOT change engine speed)
Check injectors (should be 10-14 ohms resistance between terminals)
Check ignition spark
Check spark plugs
Check fuel pressure
Check ECM harness connector
Check ECM power supply and ground circuit
Try known good ECM
2010-08-29 15:13:22
^ thats a good thing to check, i too have had coolant temp sensors go bad and it was compinsating for hot tempatures that werent really there dumping alot of fuell. a bad coolant temp sensors can cause an aray of issues.
2010-08-29 18:17:17
Originally Posted by Cliff
If you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running:

Try disconnecting the TPS and running the car.

If there's no change, then disconnect the MAF and reconnect the TPS, and then try running the car.

If the idle greatly improves we know where to look.

I don't know what's going on.

• Disconnected the TPS and car didn't idle.
• Disconnected the TPS and MAF and the car idled.
No extra throttle was used for both start ups. Went back in the house to post the results and then I decided to redo this test before posting.

• Disconnected the TPS and car idled.
• Connected the TPS the car idled.
No extra throttle was used for start ups. During the start up with everything connected, I gave the car some throttle and it revved up periodically as before. I think the repeated starts has warmed up the engine and made it easier to idle.

Heading to Canadian Tire to rent or buy the compression tester?

2010-08-29 19:08:41
check maf grounds, check maf connection, clean maf for precautions on the whole ideing but dieing situation.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)

    Back to top