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Thread: A/C not working in traffic/extreme heat!

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Posts: 11-20 of 41
2010-08-10 12:21:43
#11
Originally Posted by blo0d
hey, before I spend money on a new drier and vacuuming and re-gassing, the comment of it being heat in the engine bay is unfounded? because when you put your hand between the engine fan and the compressor, wow its incredibly hot.


I honestly don't think the heat in the engine bay has much if anything to do with your system's ability to blow cold. It can effect the system slightly, but that's why there's a condenser fan, in addition to a radiator fan. The condenser fan isn't to cool the coolant in your radiator, but to assist in cooling the condenser coil.

If you look in SOME auto manufacturer's cars, the condenser coil has it's own dedicated fan, that isn't shared with the radiator.

A lot of times I see people say that when you recharge the system, you should check with an I/R thermometer for around 35~40 degrees (F) of output. This should only be assumed at 80 degrees (F) (with low relative humidity) outside temperatures. If it's 100 degrees (F) and roughly 50% humidity, you should only expect output temperatures at idle to be around 60~70 degrees (F) when checked with an I/R thermometer.

I'm no guru with A/C though, so I could be completely off. This is just what I have learned over the years when repairing my own A/C systems in cars.
2010-08-10 15:36:06
#12
Well I made arrangements for the above to be done today, hoping its done whilst the sun is hot so I can give you all an update.


Thanks for the awesome advice and inputs... Much props my sr20-forum
family
2010-08-10 15:36:58
#13
Hope it works out for you!
2010-08-10 17:00:31
#14
Originally Posted by Cliff
Sure they do. My 2004 WRX and 2005 Armada both have issues where it gets "warm" in stop-n-go traffic. That's just the inefficiency of R134's blend of freons, whereas R12 was not a blend but a single freon.


this is false
2010-08-10 17:01:54
#15
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
- No new car I have road in gets warm like my SE-R does, but I did hear that R12 stays/gets colder.


incorrect
2010-08-10 17:02:54
#16
Originally Posted by mafoose
R12 works better in older cars because they were designed for it. R134 works "ok" in retrofits and better in factory systems because each system is sized for the car and refrigerant. The condensers at least are bigger in R134 systems then R12 ones.


give this man a cigar....this is true
2010-08-10 17:11:58
#17
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
- Ok. I feel better now that it's not just me. Must be our old systems, because I did my R12 to R134a conversion to the "T" and it gets warm in "to and go traffic." Once I get back to moving, it's back on ice. New cars don't do this.


did u change the expansion valve?
2010-08-10 17:24:45
#18
Originally Posted by THOR
did u change the expansion valve?


http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/14360-project-c-beat-heat-pics-inside.html#post186881

^My thread.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/186881-post2.html

^Here is my parts list. I did not take one shortcut.
2010-08-10 17:45:05
#19
what usually causes the traffic heat is the idle when the car is not moving need to be at 900 rpm nand thats the least...1k works for me. u need to install another fan for the condenser as the two may not be efficient enough for the car now.... must ppl forget that the condenser should be washed as well as the fins in the cond. and radiator may be bent thus stop proper heat exchange. a clean evap is key but as u have in ur list that u got a new one so i would assume u serviced the filters and reinstalled them.
2010-08-10 18:00:07
#20
Originally Posted by THOR
this is false


Oh, really? How so?

Originally Posted by THOR
what usually causes the traffic heat is the idle when the car is not moving need to be at 900 rpm nand thats the least...1k works for me. u need to install another fan for the condenser as the two may not be efficient enough for the car now.... must ppl forget that the condenser should be washed as well as the fins in the cond. and radiator may be bent thus stop proper heat exchange. a clean evap is key but as u have in ur list that u got a new one so i would assume u serviced the filters and reinstalled them.


First of all, please use punctuation. It was difficult to read (not picking on you, only asking). Secondly, your statement with regards to the 900rpm base idle is for what vehicle?

Last I had checked, any vehicle with manufacturer's specs does not idle above 900rpm, warm; yet their A/C systems seem to work fine when properly serviced...
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