extreme heat!

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2010-08-10 22:03:45

#31

Pretty White Online/offline status of Pretty White is unknown

Nehemiah 5:19

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My situation is the opposite. In stop and Go my temps go DOWN! On the highway on extremely hot days it goes up with the A/C on.

Originally Posted by Mike22487

I'm having a similar situation, I have a 2" dual core rad, ss headers and only 2 slim fans, my a/c guy called it heat soak
.
To fix the problem I'm going to add another fan on the bumper side, but for now I drive all highway and the a/c ineficiency in stop and go traffic is not too much of an inconvience

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2010-08-10 22:05:31

#32

Cliff

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Secondly, your argument is null and void. I'm not talking about retrofits of ANY kind. I'd love to give you a detailed explanation, but I'm on my iPhone right now. Expect more later

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'17 Golf R

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2010-08-11 01:21:36

#33

THOR

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Originally Posted by Cliff

I don't know that any of those vehicles idle above 850rpm +/- 50rpm. iIRC, they run even lower on 5MT vs autocraptic

have a pic now of my xtrail idling at 8.5k with ac on...

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Calum basic, N60 maf, N1 cams, Greddy mss, JWT cam gears, ssac 2.5" header, 3" exhaust, Vibrant oval pan, ES bushings, JWT popcharger, B15 stock clutch disc and A.C.T. HD pressure plate, 8.5 lbs Fidanza flywheel, gt-s tranny, Prothane E/Mounts, Vz-R front seats, TEIN HA coilovers 197whp/146wtq

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2010-08-11 02:03:37

#34

Cliff

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At 850rpm, not above. So anything below 900 as your previous comment stated, was false.

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2010-08-11 04:24:04

#35

blo0d

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Originally Posted by Pretty
I tend to agree with your mechanic. Look at my A/C thread in the NX2000 section. I had to use header jackets on my header. I noticed even though the temps still climbed, the compressor Sunday (when I installed the jackets) did not cut off.

Hey could you recommend a brand and a website for the jackets? Thanks

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2010-08-11 10:40:07

#36

Cliff

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Originally Posted by THOR

r-134a refridgerant just need to be used in a system it was designed for.... this gas is used in even deep freeze equipment.... its design was to emilate [which it did VERY well] the r-12 refidgerant. it is able to work in the r12 system but it will not work 100% due to it not being designed for that system..... look at it like this.... a de header on a ve will work.... but a ve header on a ve will work better, be cause it was designed for it. in ok situations it will not be noticed.... but get extreme and u will see the bugs of a mixed system.

Now that I have a minute:

Again, I said nothing about retrofit systems, or the like. I'm talking about 100% R134a systems, not R-12. R-12 is a very efficient freon, which also contained CFC's that hurt the ozone. R134a does NOT, and therefore, you can evacuate the system in your driveway. There's absolutely nothing harmful about it. Of course you'd want the correct equipment so that you can evacuate and then apply vacuum to pull the rest of the oil and residue out prior to recharge.

When I speak of R134a's inefficiency as a freon blend, I refer to the actual makeup. There are at least a dozen different freons in this blend that make it what it is. The BIGGEST problem? These freons are not all identical in makeup. You may have freon A that bleeds off from the system at 38psig high pressure, and freon B that bleeds off from the system at 26psig. What you're doing is altering the overall blend, and cooling characteristics of the entire system are changed. You can't simply "top off" the charge like you could with R12, either. Why? Because now lets say you're 1oz. low from type B from the blend. You top the system off, and now you are .75oz low on type B from the overall blend. If you keep repeating this, you eventually have a very useless blend of R134A that does nothing but blow a cool, moist air into the cabin because the compressor is not working effectively.

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2010-08-11 16:28:56

#37

THOR

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Originally Posted by Cliff

Now that I have a minute:

Again, I said nothing about retrofit systems, or the like. I'm talking about 100% R134a systems, not R-12. R-12 is a very efficient freon, which also contained CFC's that hurt the ozone. R134a does NOT, and therefore, you can evacuate the system in your driveway. There's absolutely nothing harmful about it. Of course you'd want the correct equipment so that you can evacuate and then apply vacuum to pull the rest of the oil and residue out prior to recharge.

vacuuming the system isnt to get out oil...and residue, its to get out the air [moisture]that is in the system that will condesate in the line causeing water droplets that will block the expansion valve or metering device.

When I speak of R134a's inefficiency as a freon blend, I refer to the actual makeup. There are at least a dozen different freons in this blend that make it what it is. The BIGGEST problem? These freons are not all identical in makeup. You may have freon A that bleeds off from the system at 38psig high pressure, and freon B that bleeds off from the system at 26psig. What you're doing is altering the overall blend, and cooling characteristics of the entire system are changed. You can't simply "top off" the charge like you could with R12, either. Why? Because now lets say you're 1oz. low from type B from the blend. You top the system off, and now you are .75oz low on type B from the overall blend. If you keep repeating this, you eventually have a very useless blend of R134A that does nothing but blow a cool, moist air into the cabin because the compressor is not working effectively.

this cannot stop the compressor from working effectively..... the compressor is a pump...are u saying because, to u, the blend is off the pump will not be effective....

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2010-08-11 19:24:47

#38

Cliff

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Originally Posted by THOR

...vacuuming the system isnt to get out oil...and residue, its to get out the air [moisture]that is in the system that will condesate in the line causeing water droplets that will block the expansion valve or metering device.
...
...this cannot stop the compressor from working effectively..... the compressor is a pump...are u saying because, to u, the blend is off the pump will not be effective....

First, I simply refer to condensation as "residue", since residue from evacuation can still be present. I should have re-worded my response.

We also do not want any moisture in the filter dryer assembly, as it will degrade/clog the dryer assembly and prohibit effective cooling capabilities.

I never said that the compressor would stop working, I just said that the blend being far enough off reduces the overall performance of the system as a whole. Think of a "bad blend" as "undercharged". When a system is under-charged, you experience as I stated above.

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2010-08-13 21:24:53

#39

THOR

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this somehow feels like a pissing competition lol..... i guess we where taught different stuff

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