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Thread: My timing issues...

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Posts: 31-40 of 61
2010-08-20 16:47:46
#31
I am guessing I should not use the wooden block again, just remove the tensioner?
2010-08-20 16:53:56
#32
I absolutely hate the wooden block method.

I always remove the tensioner since it makes it much easier to do what needs to be done. The only downside obviously is having to remove the oil filter, if you do not have the VE/RR oil filter housing.
2010-08-20 16:55:51
#33
If you still can't figure it out, or something still isn't right, I may just drive up there. You're only a little over an hour away.
2010-08-20 17:00:17
#34
Originally Posted by Cliff
If you still can't figure it out, or something still isn't right, I may just drive up there. You're only a little over an hour away.


Cliff, I will buy you a case of beer if you do drive up here. No joke. Whatever you want.

Is it worth, beer and food and seeing some SR20 members for ya now?!? Come on up here, bud!!! Help me figure this fucking thing out!
2010-08-20 17:27:06
#35


Well let me see what's on the agenda this weekend, and I'll get back with you. Google Maps shows 1Hr 21min. drive one way, which isn't bad. Also looks pretty scenic which I wouldn't mind.
2010-08-21 06:28:23
#36
Originally Posted by Cliff


Well let me see what's on the agenda this weekend, and I'll get back with you. Google Maps shows 1Hr 21min. drive one way, which isn't bad. Also looks pretty scenic which I wouldn't mind.


Cliff, I hope you come down and help me out. That would be great. I want this issue resolved so I can see what NA numbers I am dropping. I hope to break 160 whp.
2010-08-21 13:53:52
#37
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Or both cams moved equally and no cam teeth were skipped, but the crank sprocket skipped a tooth. This would cause ignition timing to be off by 20 degrees as Cliff said. The direction the crank rotated when the tooth skipped could be either way, so it could cause the distributor to need turning either way to "fix" the problem.


Originally Posted by Cliff
It's very difficult to skip a tooth on the crank. VERY difficult.

Also, note that the cam profiles are different as well, which may be confusing you, Ben.


If the engine has a skipped tooth on the crank and 'correct' it by advancing the timing, does that cause any other issues or just that your distributor is in an odd placement? In other words, is there any negatives to a skipped crank tooth?

I've always had a similar problem ever since I've purchased my engine. Cam timing is 100% correct(checked more than 3 times), but I have to advance my timing almost all the way advanced to get 15*.

-G
2010-08-21 14:34:21
#38
Originally Posted by gomba
is there any negatives to a skipped crank tooth?
Yes it means the cam timing is 20 degrees off (one way or the other). It's really not good at all.
2010-08-22 01:10:17
#39
If my crank were off one tooth, would I not have some serious issues with my car. I am not having serious issues. I hit the dyno and no flat spots or anything.

I really do not know if anything is off on this car... it would run shitty if it was and the car does not run shitty.

Maybe this is why Brian Crower cams make less power, because they are fucking weird?

I do not think my crank is off at all. I think maybe my exhaust cam is off one tooth.
2010-08-29 18:52:19
#40
I popped the valve cover today.
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