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Thread: My timing issues...

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Posts: 11-20 of 61
2010-08-11 14:51:45
#11
When that happed to me I wanted to throw my dam car over a cliff!!!

I'ts hard enough to work on the car with the block still installed. There is zero space by the oil cover and the engine bay... I was convinced, that It would be better to pull the whole dam thing out.

It's amazing what a few beers will do
2010-08-11 15:01:19
#12
Best argument to start drinking I've heard yet.
2010-08-11 15:16:44
#13
Not sure if anyone mentioned this yet, and I'm suprised lynch hasn't (I think it was him I'd have to search) - but any chance your crank pully has seperated? That would cause your timing difference visually.
2010-08-11 15:21:17
#14
Originally Posted by canx2k
Not sure if anyone mentioned this yet, and I'm suprised lynch hasn't (I think it was him I'd have to search) - but any chance your crank pully has seperated? That would cause your timing difference visually.


This was mentioned in the other thread I thought. Anyway, I thought about this already. Before you start the cam swap, you put the engine at TDC with the pulley marks at 0*. Pop the valve cover and see where the cam gears mate to the chain. Everything was good when I started and ended that job.

Something, mechanical, happened after I installed cams in this car. I know I checked the timing after I installed the cams and it was showing me the correct value. Sometime between after the cam install and now is when I had this issue.

I will certainly know a lot more when I can pop the valve cover off. I should be able to get the cover off on Saturday and see what the hell is going on in there. I am waiting for a new gasket kit form Greg V which hit the mail yesterday. I should have it on Friday for the job on Saturday.

I really hope I get these issues fixed before I go to the dyno again. I want to break 160whp badly.
2010-08-11 17:35:25
#15
Pulley could have separated since the cam install. I would take out the #1 spark plug and physically check to make sure it is at TDC and that the crank pulley matches up. If so then go ahead and pull the valve cover. Might save you some time.
2010-08-20 04:37:55
#16
Originally Posted by BenFenner




Ben made this. I think he is on to something. The intake cam looks good. THe lobes all appear in the same spot. This may be difficult because of the assembly lube on the new set of cams, but it is easy to see it on lobes ONE and FOUR.

I know believe from these pictures taken the day of the swap, my exhaust cam is rotated TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR ONE TOOTH.

Please, let me know what you guys think. I did this with my pics and I thought they looked the same. I honestly think different about the situation now.
2010-08-20 13:35:30
#17
Both cams look the same to me. Looks like they both advance one tooth, assuming both pictures were taken with #1 cylinder at TDC between compression and power strokes.

Dave
2010-08-20 14:59:34
#18
Originally Posted by Viprdude
I now believe from these pictures taken the day of the swap, my exhaust cam is rotated TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR ONE TOOTH.
I know Dave just said he thinks they both moved, but I think only the exhaust cam moved. Yes I think it rotated towards the front of the car.

As to how that would affect your timing, I didn't want to think it through last night just like you but I'll give it a try today.

If the exhaust cam has rotated towards the front of the car one tooth that means the end of the cam where the distributor connects has rotated counterclockwise. That means the CAS disc has rotated counterclockwise compared to the optical sensor inside. To get the correct ignition timing the the optical sensor needs to be rotated counterclockwise as well to "catch up" to where the CAS disc is now. That means you'd need to rotate the distributor counterclockwise a bit to get the right timing. That's towards the front of the car.

That looks like the opposite of what you're having to do with your distributor.

Hopefully I didn't make any mistakes in my thinking. I'm starting to think Dave must be right.
2010-08-20 15:07:01
#19
Either way, valve cover is coming off tomorrow.

I will take all of this into consideration and take pictures.

I just got my reprogrammed JWT ECU in and the Maxima MAF installed. Car is a WORLD of difference compared to the stock ECU I was running for a few weeks while my ECU was at JWT being re flashed.
2010-08-20 15:17:25
#20
Ben's analysis of distributor position is correct, but I still say the intake cam has rotated the same as the exhaust between the 2 pictures. Look at #3 intake rocker, which is closing the valves. Look at #1 intake lobe too.

I suspect the problem might be with the TPS closed timing table in the JWT ECU. Do you know what those values are? If not, if you can email me the bin, i can tell if there's anything amiss there.

Dave
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