Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Lost shims!

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 51-60 of 86
2010-08-14 21:39:58
#51
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Just put the engine at tdc with the cam lobes pointing away from each other on the #1 cylinder, remove the tensioner, and then loosen the cam cap bolts in sequence until removed. pop the cam up, you dont really have to take it out of the head or the chain off the gear just get enough room to put the rocker and shims in then tighten everything back down, put the tensioner back in, Torque the cam cap bolts to 90 inch-lbs, release the tensioner by either pushing on the bannana guide (one against the tensioner) while you have the valve cover off to release the clip or turn the motor over by hand slowly until the chain pushes on the guide releasing the clip. You should hear a zip sound when it releases.


^^^So I still go thru this for cylinder 3 & 4 rite??
2010-08-14 22:48:31
#52
no, just put the motor at tdc with the #1 cam lobes pointing away and just loosen up the cam cap bolts not all the way until the cam lifts up and do it that way, Still gotta torque the cam cap bolts but you wont need to lift the cam up all the way and remove the tensioner.

Ive had to do this at the track one time when i threw a rocker arm. Lucky the rocker remained in one piece for the intake #3 cylinder and found both shims on top near the springs. Did this with basic tools and was back out running 6 passes with a great night. That happened on my first pass when i spun soo bad that my rev limiter didnt keep up and over revved two gears.
2010-08-15 15:50:15
#53
o ok....thanks....n also one more thing....do i still have to ziptie the chain to the cam gears like ppl say to do or no?
2010-08-15 18:52:55
#54
nope, just leave the tensioner in and do as i said. The cam will lift up plenty to get the rocker and shims back in without having to fully remove it.
2010-08-16 03:36:51
#55
thanks 4 all ur help.....feels good that i don't have to take it to the dealership or the shop anymore....well...i'll be waiting for ur shims to come in, then get to work on it.
2010-08-16 03:50:51
#56
Soo out of two full sets of shims i had, i measured them all and all but 2 were identical in size. The two that were not the same size were .001" thicker. This was done with a professional micrometer.

So 16 shims and all the same size except two and those two were .001" thicker. So its safe to say that its really not too big of a deal and i assume when the motors were built from the factory they were just held under very very tight tolerances. Which i just goes to show you why these motors last soo long even under abuse.

As far as for anyone else. .001" difference is not going to make a noticable difference and its not something to really worry about it.
2010-08-17 00:55:43
#57
bump
2010-08-17 00:59:18
#58
bump for what dude? did u go do that shit yet or what??? go do it!! then let us know how it went..
2010-08-17 01:20:42
#59
shims are on the way. He should get them wed or thursday
2010-08-17 02:07:33
#60
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
bump for what dude? did u go do that shit yet or what??? go do it!! then let us know how it went..



yea....can't do em till i receive the shims....but thanks everyone for all ur input
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top