Thread: Lost shims!

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Yep. The shims make sure the rocker contact surface is parallel to the cam lobe. Get them wrong and things will work, you'll just get uneven and accelerated wear on the cam lobes and rockers. Also the two valves will not open the same exact amount, and you could potentially have a valve that doesn't ever seat or seal completely. Potentially not a big deal to some.

If the left-side grooved shims are all the same size, Why the hell wouldnt the other sides be the same size. Think about it for one second. And we are talking about a difference of probably .001 difference between each size. Your valves arent going to seat any higher than the other or lower unless valve work was done and even then its microscopic.

And when a normal valve lash gap is between .008-.012 that .001 is not going to make that much of a difference if any at all. Maybe over the course of 200k miles you might see more wear than the other.

But again back to the valve height. If they are the same which on an untouched head they should be or darn close to it. Your shims should be the same size as well on both sides. Make sense? Again there is always room for error that comes from the factory that might need to be taken up for but again, its nothing to worry about.

If it was such a big deal on this why the hell do you think Miko would have come up with using two grooved shims on the rockers to help keep rockers in place on motors reving to 8k or higher. Its such a little difference you will more than likely not ever see any negative from just throwing new shims (no matter the size) in and go. So much arguement over something so minor.

Thank You...people made it seem so complicated but it feels much better to know that I can get to work on it now. Just gotta wait for the shims to come in....btw...how do u go about installing the shims?? is there a thread somewhere for doing this?

u just put them in the top of the valve springs lol..

prolly gonna wanna just remove the cam first tho.. idk if it can be done with out removin it or not..

yea....i didn't know if u had to remove the cams or not...n i've never removed the cams so if i have to, is there a thread for that??

thanks

yea look in the how to section, might be under the ve stuff.. GregV made a thread about it but its for the VE's.. however from what i've seen there should be no diff in the process..

which cylinder is it on that popped the rocker. If its cylinder 3 or 4 you can just loosen the cam cap bolts like your going to take the cam out but dont loosen them all the way out. The cam will lift up enough for you to put the shims back in and slide the rocker under and onto the lifter and shims.

If its the other cylinders you will have to take the cam out. Just put the engine at tdc with the cam lobes pointing away from each other on the #1 cylinder, remove the tensioner, and then loosen the cam cap bolts in sequence until removed. pop the cam up, you dont really have to take it out of the head or the chain off the gear just get enough room to put the rocker and shims in then tighten everything back down, put the tensioner back in, Torque the cam cap bolts to 90 inch-lbs, release the tensioner by either pushing on the bannana guide (one against the tensioner) while you have the valve cover off to release the clip or turn the motor over by hand slowly until the chain pushes on the guide releasing the clip. You should hear a zip sound when it releases.

exhaust side of cylinder 3 and 4.

Lost shims are no big deal. Just run to the store and replace em with watch batteries. DONE.