For the SPAL unit, there are only two buttons on it. When programming the 'low' and 'high' temp settings, you have to know what temperature the car is actually at, because you have to press the program button once at low, and again at high temperature.
So you can't rely on what the water temperature readout says on the dash. It is not accurate at all. It could be off +/- 30 degrees ( and often is on many cars ).. and you don't want your car potentially overheating by 30 degrees
I used my scangauge to connect to the OBD2 computer to read the coolant temperature sensor's output, straight from the ECU. You could probably read the voltage of the coolant temp sensor with a voltmeter though, if you don't have a similar tool.
Anyways, that's the downside to the SPAL. Then again.... i'm not sure how well the DIF unit measures temperatures. I think it assumes certain voltages from the stock temperature sensor = certain temperatures, which probably vary from car to car.
... if this sounds a little obsessive, it's for a reason. I used the SPAL setup on my BMW because the cooling system on that car was very, very bad. There wasn't any room for error, otherwise poof, there goes the head-gasket and aluminum head.. O_O