Thread: Engine running now, but not very well [PICS]

Thanks, guys. That's what I thought and it's good to hear concurrence. Here's the scary thing - I am 100% sure that when I installed the cams, the chain was on correctly, and the timing marks lined up. I will definitely double-check this, but I'm sure it's right on. This means it's going to be off at the crank gear (I took the timing cover off in this process and was moving the chain around.)

Now I know what you're thinking, cause I thought it too - why not just move it over one link at both cam gears? Well the problem is that the cam gears are different sizes than the crank gear, and moving it one link on the cam gear would not be quite the same as moving it one link at the crank gear, and would still make the valves open/close at slightly off times.

The question is can I move it one link at the crank gear without taking off the timing cover? If I go out and get a borescope, I think I can fit it down there to make sure that I can see where the timing mark is lining up, but I don't know how I would move the chain considering those guides are there keeping it from moving.

Thanks for all your input, guys.

my opinion, i would just reset the timing the way the FSM says to do it, it seems like you have a good build and some money in it, and its not worth just half assing it, esp becuase youcould cause some major damage and junk the motor. thats just me tho.

pull the timing chain set everything up, line everything up. put the timing chain back on, then adjust your ignition timing also to whatever you want it at stock or advanced...and then see how it runs.

doing it any other way i think chances too many things

Dang blubird are you ALWAYS on??

I'm definitely with you there. I've put waaaaaayy too much money into this sucker to risk breaking everything. I'm so glad I didn't hear a boom-shatter-clack-tinkle-tinkle when I started it up lol. Any idea how many teeth exactly I can be off before it does that? I suspect I'm only off by one tooth, but I'm curious.

Thanks again for all your help, guys.

well it looks way advanced, but to the fact that you have heard any damage or anything like that, i dont think it was advaced to the point of distruction. definitly at this point doing it right is major key, it would suck to have that motor go down the drain over a simple timing issue

pulling the chain and setting everything to stock will insure you are on the right path, then like i said adjust the ignition timing corectly and you should be good to go.

i also second the ngk spark plugs they are cheap and really good.

X3 on the NGK...our motors really don't like anything else. Coppers are 1.98 each and outperform any of the others.

Strangely, my motor was just doing the same thing.
I replaced the distributor and now it runs great.
Take the cover off that hides the CAS & look to see if any oil has gotten inside....our dizzys have a problem w/ O-rings leaking. Yep.
If so, you'll need a new one or rebuilt one, the LEDs inside the CAS are probably shot. I had to move my dizzy all the way over just to get it to idle at all, except for 1200-2000 rpm, where it idled real swell.
WTF? The ECU uses the CAS info, thats WTF.
Borrow somebody else's dizzy or use the one you have off of your old motor-give it a shot before you tear into the motor.
Good luck.
Rob

A link is a link. The size ratio doesn't involve the size of the gear, but the size of the links. The cam gears being larger isn't for timing purposes, but torque purposes. If all links in a chain are the same size, it doesn't matter where you move a gear position on that chain, it's always the same movement. While I still agree that re-doing the chain entirely is the best method, moving each cam 1 link is exactly equal to moving the crank 1 link. 1 link is never more/less than 1 link.

Unless I completely missed something on my sick day from physics...

Wow that's really weird - I'll definitely look at that possibility first - I actually do have my other dizzy in my garage right now so I'll do a quick swap and see if that's the issue.




I suppose when you think about it that way, it makes perfect sense. That'll make it easier if I do end up having to tear it apart. Just doing the valve cover and adjusting the cams is a lot easier than taking off the timing cover.




Thank you so much, all! I can't wait to drive my baby

Definitely. I'm just finishing up from a timing cover swap, and while the work wasn't too tricky or demanding, it is time consuming. When you do it in-car, that is.

just set the motor at TDC, and put the cams like suggested in the FSM, if you did that it doesn't matter where your chain is at...a chain is a chain no matter which link is colored and all that bs. I would just pull your valve cover, and crank the motor with a socket on the crank pulley watching for the intake then exhaust valve to open and close and stick a long screwdriver or something in the plug hole, keep turning the crank until the piston reaches TDC, you'll feel it. Then check the markings on your pulley, they should be right (no reason that they shouldn't, this part is mechanical) Next make sure your cams are as stated in the FSM. Once you reach this point the timing chain doesn't even matter. You can then go on and set your ignition timing. One step at at time...the best way to go. I'd just start all over from your base mechanical timing and work your way up so you know it's right. Just remember when you're turning the crank
Intake
Compression
Power
Exhaust

You should be able to count each stroke.

bro throw those plugs the fuk out! ngk those plugs u got there.. fu king toss them in the trash.NOW. go outside an remove them..

then walk to a napa tomrorow an find NGK's... good god man.. many pulsar motors have gone under due to those plugs an geniuses thinkin there the ****.