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Thread: AC Gurus - Problems After Refill

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Posts: 1-10 of 26
2010-06-15 05:48:53
#1
AC Gurus - Problems After Refill
A day before leaving for the beach I realized that my AC was not working on my P11. Now I bought the car in the Winter and when I tested it then it "seemed" to work but the Climate control system never really shows you if AC is actually on or not.

It turned out the ac core/radiator had a huge hole in it. I took the one from the my other P11 (which had fully working AC). I created a deep vacuum (30 hg) via vacuum pump for at least 10 minutes. Then started adding freon with oil mixed in (first mistake). After about 2.5 cans (first can was only half full), I was at about 30 psi @ 85*F.

It was at night and AC felt cold enough. While driving to the beach I noticed it wasn't all that cold in 90+ temperatures. I stopped by Walmart and picked up another can of freon, in an attempt to raise that 30psi to 45psi. Well it seemed liked the can was filled with air not freon.

My system was way over pressured afterward, the compressor wouldn't even kick on. I took a screw driver and started pressing the low pressure line side. This would release air and compressor would kick on when freon would start leaking out. At that point I was able to finish the drive.

Now today we went for a ride and once again the AC wouldn't kick on, I'm sure it's because there is extra air in the system. The system held deep vacuum without leaking for more then 5 minutes when I tested the other day, so no leaks in the system. Is the compressor busted? I'm afraid to add any more freon, since it seems to be a simple waste of money .
2010-06-15 06:13:03
#2
I should add, for the longest time I've heard everyone saying to tip the can upside down and shake it. After some reading I'm seeing that the more proper way to do it is to keep the can right side up. That way liquid doesn't get into he low pressure side and damage the compressor.
2010-06-16 00:45:34
#3
From what I read you are supposed to vacuum the system out for atleast 30 mins to make sure all the moisture is removed,
.
I had a problem like that on my car it worked great at night but was junk during the day, I had a clog in my system well actually in the expansion valve, I took everything apart and blew 100psi air through each pipe and component I also replaced the drier
.
Take it to an a/c shop that does free checks and ask them to see if your compressor has the right pressures, my se-r has low high pressure and high low pressure so my compressor is starting to go
.
A general rule that a/c shops go by if the system is opened up the drier should be replaced, there is dessicant in it (the stuff in the packets you find in new clothes) which removes moisture, it gets gummy and it will clog up after a while
2010-06-16 08:38:28
#4
evac and start from scratch. 2.5 bottles is alittle too much id say. my sister in laws 05 maxima only took about 1.7 bottles when i put in 2 and it was alittle too much.

dont charge through pressures go through amount.


my ol b13 took about the same amount around 1.5.

and yes sir evac from 30min to an hour.

i id say replace your expansion valve or orifice tube. whatever them p11's have. just in case
2010-06-16 12:41:58
#5
I would find someone who can evacuate the entire system, and then put back the correct amount of 134a.

I had another member look at my P10 last night - AC would kick on for ~20 seconds, and then kick off (not coming back on). After looking at it, he felt it was overfilled. His machine evac'ed the entire system, pulled a quick vacuum, and placed the correct amount in. The verdict was my system had 2x the correct amount!

AC blows cold now for 40+ minute drives (the drive from his shop to my house).

Josh
2010-06-16 13:14:14
#6
Originally Posted by Fosters
I would find someone who can evacuate the entire system, and then put back the correct amount of 134a.

I had another member look at my P10 last night - AC would kick on for ~20 seconds, and then kick off (not coming back on). After looking at it, he felt it was overfilled. His machine evac'ed the entire system, pulled a quick vacuum, and placed the correct amount in. The verdict was my system had 2x the correct amount!

AC blows cold now for 40+ minute drives (the drive from his shop to my house).

Josh


^I would take it to a shop and have them do it. I've done the whole A/C deal front to back / inside and out. There is not a lot of room for shortcuts. The vacuum is gonna cost $100-$125. I don't think that is a lot to pay to keep from sweating your balls off for 4 to 5 months. Plus runny makeup on a date is not cute.
2010-06-16 16:47:07
#7
I pulled a deep vacuum for about an hour at first, but then had it all go away when I unplugged to fill it with a bottle that wouldn't attach to the hose that's part of the ac manifold. And realized that the vacuum opens the one way valves .

Afterward I vacuumed it out for at least 10 minutes, then used two whole 12oz cans, and 6oz, it was only at 30psi. Unfortunately it doesn't seem like the FSM says how much liquid to fill it.

The vacuum pump pulls a deep vacuum fairly quickly, less then a minute actually. I was looking at a how to on HondaTech, and from the sounds of it it usually takes longer to get to deep vacuum. The vacuum pump makes a different noise once it has reached deep vacuum and I no longer saw vapors coming out of the vacuum pump.

7. Attach the gauge manifold set to your high and low pressure nipples. Attach the vacuum pump to the middle (yellow) line. Open both the high and low side lines. Run the vacuum pump for 30 mins MINIMUM up to one full hour. If the compressor sounds like its seriously about to break, you can shut it off sooner, BUT NO SHORTER THAN 30 MINUTES. (A weak compressor may not have the power required to suck perfect vacuum, and will stress the motor.) Some may say less, but I say why risk under pumping when you can just let it sit a little longer.


I think I might have a blockage in the system though, especially since there was a nice hole in the ac radiator line, so dirt can be clogging it up .
2010-06-16 17:12:02
#8
It The Compressor Kickin On?
2010-06-16 18:06:04
#9
Per my P10 FSM, 0.70-0.80 kg (1.54-1.76 lb) is the refrigerant capacity.
Per my 2002 P11 FSM, 0.55-0.65 kg (1.21-1.43 lb) is the refrigerant capacity.

30 oz should be 1.875 lb. Looks like you are over-filled.
2010-06-16 19:04:30
#10
Originally Posted by HKS
It The Compressor Kickin On?


Off and on Yes.

Originally Posted by Fosters
Per my P10 FSM, 0.70-0.80 kg (1.54-1.76 lb) is the refrigerant capacity.
Per my 2002 P11 FSM, 0.55-0.65 kg (1.21-1.43 lb) is the refrigerant capacity.

30 oz should be 1.875 lb. Looks like you are over-filled.


Interesting, now I used the R134a with oil in it, from what I remember 10-11oz R134a and 1-2oz oil. I wonder if that's too much oil too.

It's odd that it would stay at 30psi. Oddly enough it did work just fine for most of the trip. When I went back to check it, it was still at 30 psi, hence I added more. At that point it felts like only air was added.

What are your guys take on R152a? Essentially it is the canned air that we use to clean computer components.
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