Thread: Low lumpy idle at start up and hitting a wall during acceleration (the feeling of it)

Ok Today I finally tried to pull codes. I kept getting 3-4. So I decided to put it in diasgnostic mode and start the car. (I was bored of knock sensor code LOL) and it gave me back a 5-5. Now thats idle control valve. Why did I have to put the ECU in diagnostic and start the car to get that anyway? One thing I neglected to post. The AACV was exposed to coolant because of the rear hoses leaking. Could that have thrown it out of wack? Also, how do you remove the idle control valve to clean it out? Not the Auxilary bypass valve.

It's possible. Coolant does cause copper to corrode.


4 bolts that run horizontal into the manifold. They are located down by the oil filter housing.

They are a pain to get to when you have your ac in place as well. I believe (and this is going off memory) but its almost easiest to get to when the filter is off the car, so doing this during an oil change is best.

You can see the valve on the very far right side of the picture that AztecSR20 posted as well.

Will do blairless

edit

OK, A little update.
I cleaned out a very dirty idle control valve.
I got a 0101 and that was cam position sensor. Got a new distributer from llprad. Changed that.
Cleaned out t/b. It will fire up to about q500, hold for about 30 seconds, then drop and die. If I hold the throttle open at 1500, I can lightly let go of it and it will stay and eventually drop back down and hunt. Once the car reaches an operating temp of 150+ it will idle well. Still lost. If I shut the car down and restart after a quick cool down, it will do it too, but not as long to idle correctly.

Why is it that the colder the ambient weather, the better the cars idle is?? The warmer it gets the worst the idle gets.

I just read the whole thread and can't remember if you have replaced the maf or not...

my car does the same thing, i really blame the iacv lol i just learn to live with it, i've been doin some reading an i think theres a way to tune the ecu to help in my case..

could have to do with a iacv problem along with the coolant temp sensor. basicly in any tune even factory tune the ammount of fuel added on start up is in corralation to the cts this means that the cts is constantly adding and subtractive fuel on start up depending on the ambient temp, for instence you will see more fuel on start up to get the car warm verses say when you start the car after the coolants already warm.

this can effect the idle esp if you have a dirty aac or iacv could just be seeing different issues there.

your cars idle might respond better to richer fuel than a little more leaner fuel afrs when completely warm or in warmer weather.