Thread: Broken crossmember bolt...HELP

if you get the drill bit out, and the bolt won't turn, keep drilling the hole larger and larger and larger until you're almost to the threads but there is still some thin metal from the bolt. this should allow the metal to flex and you might be able to get it out with some needle nose pliers if you're really careful. i've watched my dad use this method, also.

edit: before you try needle nose pliers, use a larger easy-out and see if that works. should turn way easier with the thin metal.

im running 3 bolts on my crossmember with washers acting as bushings....

Ahaha I actually did this on my dd b13! I drilled but missed so I welded it. I wouldnt do it though, it puts all the stress on the engine mounts. Every time I hit a bump, I hear my engine creaking around.

If you get the drill bit out and start drilling progressively larger holes, switch to left-hand drill bits. As your are drilling with those, they may back the bolt out for you (when you get closer to the bolt size with the bit). Be prepared to run a tap back in the threads to clean them up before you put in a new bolt.

I was going to suggest this. I had to to do this until I figured out how to back the bolt out.
Tack weld the end that is broken and cut it when you need to drop it.

no way.I want i to be fixed right.
Still haven't messed with it yet.

hey egg man....my xmember bolts are stripped,and dont tourque tight and just spin,right by the radiator.....so i decided ,once i GET the bolts out....right under the lower rad support im going to drill 2 holes for a longer and fatter bolt to go thru the x member AND lower rad support,the, use a nylon lock nut atop with washers and some bushings to keep the rattles downnnn..........

X2 I did this on my daily driver. Has been holding ever since and I don't even think I will end up fixing it.

^^ with my luck,I would tack weld it and need a motor swap soon after.There is a 200,000 mile DE in th car,so it is inevitable.I prefer going out the bottom,so I would be stuck.