Thread: IACV Direction?? Non Bi-Directional?

I've tuned many cars that no longer have idle controllers and used a cracked throttle to supply enough air to maintain a stable idle. I have never had the issue you speak of. You will still pull vacuum with a cracked throttle plate.

I guess to clarify I'm having cold start issues, not idle necessarily. When I start the car when cold I have to hold the car at 2k rpm for about 10 seconds or so until it starts idling otherwise the car will die each time I try starting it..I need to replace my front O2 sensor. I'll see if that fixes it before I start messing w/the IACV. My TB is also pretty dirty so that needs a cleaning & I think I need new plugs from running really rich due to a boost leak. I may be getting ahead of myself thinking it's the IACV.

Now, as far as the IACV/AAC valve that's used for cold starts? I've removed mine all together. Depending on your ECU, you can tune it right out, though.

The EASIEST way to tune it out, is to change the cold idle tables in the tune file. Instead of idle RPM dropping as the CLT increases, I set the idle to 1100rpm NO MATTER the CLT's value. I don't even have to hold the gas at all anymore, fires right up just fine. The only thing I need to do now, is clean up the cold idle fuel trim a bit, since it runs rather rich on start (11.1~11.8) until she's up to operating temperatures.

What about the eractic up and down idle? I pulled the valve on the back of the IM and opened it up and that was fine. How do you get rid of that valve? Just remove it and plug the hoses that hook to it?

just keep the air regulator in because you wont find a vac cap that big haha.