Originally Posted by Sentrixx
I suggest that if you are going to go to full synthetic then you should use a synthetic blend a few oil changes before you go to full synthetic. I did this to help save my seals so I wouldn't have any leaks and worked out very well.
I suggest that if you are going to go to full synthetic then you should use a synthetic blend a few oil changes before you go to full synthetic. I did this to help save my seals so I wouldn't have any leaks and worked out very well.
I would'nt totally agree or disagree with that ,, it's not a bad idea. I've always used full synthetic in every vehicle I've owned (the ones that did'nt leak or use)and not always the same brand. ex. my Chevy's got Penzoil, had a few Toyota's & they got Castrol, had a girlfriend that owned a POS Ford Mustang, it got Havoline,, and now my Eggs get Mobile 1..... but all are full synthetic.. I also either use a nissan filter or a full synthetic filter..
Originally Posted by Char
This is why I asked my question. Its a 95 SE-R and it calls for 10w30. Im now running 5w30 because its freaken cold as hell around here. I want to go turbo which means I AM going synthetic, but does that mean I should still "go by the book" and use 10w30 or use the same grade I am now or just listen to what everyone else with my setup uses that have no problems?
This is why I asked my question. Its a 95 SE-R and it calls for 10w30. Im now running 5w30 because its freaken cold as hell around here. I want to go turbo which means I AM going synthetic, but does that mean I should still "go by the book" and use 10w30 or use the same grade I am now or just listen to what everyone else with my setup uses that have no problems?
yes you should use what it says ,, reason is the tolerance of your particular motor, to thin can burn up too fast and cause a friction break down (burn a bearing) too thick can hurt your seals and rings... however in my service manual it says 5w30 is preferable for all ambient temperatures and thats in the SR20DE and GA16DE.