Thread: Brake pedal pushed in equals lights dimming and voltage drop/car cutting off

Alternator going out cause by a bad voltage regulator, maybe.

check alty....either the batt is not holding the charge or the alty is bad. start your car pull the negative cable off your car while the car is on. If it stays on then your alty is good because the car would be running off the alty. if it turnes off obviously its your alty thats bad. if not change your battery

This will tell you if the alternator isn't working at all, however it won't tell you if it's putting out the correct voltage or sufficient amperage for running and charging. Honestly, it's so easy to just take out and get tested properly.

same issue here.. the security light on the dash is barely lit when I shut the car off with my foot on the brake.. car has also died after hitting the brake.

if you can make it to advance, the alty test they can do will give you alot of good info about the condition of your battery and your alty

Guys its not the alternator. If you read, I already replaced it with a known good one that was rebuilt and tested in front of me at the store when I got it fresh. The car also runs fine until you hit the brakes. Battery is good (Fresh Odessy PC680), Alternators good. No cruise control.

Where is this brake switch you speak of?

If the switch is shorting to ground then all that "should" happen is the fuse blow.
and its at the brake pedal

any update on this?

Its been so cold I havent been able to touch the car yet. Im going to unhook the brake switches one by one and see if that makes the problem go away. I hope its just a bad switch and that everything is good after that. Or, I hope that my taillight problem (theres another recent thread here on that in this section also) was the culprit and the reason why its happening now is just because the batterys voltage isnt up to par since the car hasnt been started in about six seven months. Ill definately keep this updated though for you