Thread: B15 tranny not lining up with rear mm bracket???

TOB doesnt matter and yes its suppose to stay on the clips. Sounds like you need to jack up the back of the motor and it will line up

only sensor you need is the speed sensor and maybe one more. I know one is for the reverse lights who cares about those haha. Another one is prob for the clutch

Again I have installed about 10 trannys and this one is not working! I just took off a sr16 that had 4th gear popout and and that I INSTALLED and it didn't have this issue, so i know how Its nopt that hard, but when you go to line it up and the back is just wrong.

If you seen it you would say wow what the hell???? Because it bolts right up, the dowl pins go right in there homes , the bolts go in, and the starter goes right in, but the back MM bracket does NOT line up, so instead of saying I don't know what i am doing why not help, keep those comments to yourself, or better yet don't read this if you have no advice.

Maybe it is something simple, but from the many i have done and what people are telling me......I am lost here.

The sensors are a problem too. I am guessing i will just have to cut and solder the wires to the sensors unless there is another solution? Do I even need them?

thanks to all the peole trying to help

Well it has to matter bwecause the one i am using binds up on the shaft.....and then breaks away from the clips. I never seen so many isses in installing a simple trans.

I think I am going to loosen the mm and see if i can get it then???

i would take it off and start again and the TOB doesnt matter I have used ones from other trans and still no problem

Thats my plan. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something i missed. As for me being a lost cause thats not really fair, I might be impulsive and have trouble listening( hence my meds :rofl but I really do enjoy treading people's perspectives on my projects. If i come off like a azz I really really apologize.

Now as for this throw out bearing, I have 2 and both fit differently and the one i am using for the b15 keeps binding and won't come back when it goes foward??? I think this is my biggest issue.

Anyway thatnks for the help and I will be sure to let you guys know how it works out.

Anybody have a picture of the fork, TOB, and spring?? Just so i can see if i put it together right.

thanks again and anymore input is greatly appricated.

sorry if I came off

i had this problem once, turned out i was missin a dowell pin.. got that in an put the tranny back on an it worked like a charm..

ok please tell me you removed the crossemember to do the swap. if you still have the mount bolted to the cross member then you need to drop the crossmember.

Here is my method for every trans pull and install.

take out intake or charge pipes
Remove clutch cable and bracket.
Disconnect all trans sensors and speedo cable 91-92 models
remove axles by removing hub from the strut
Remove crossemember by disconnecting front and rear motor mount bolts and removing the 4, 2 front, 2 back crossmember to frame bolts.
Unbolt the rear motor mount bracket from trans and shifter rod from trans.
Pull trans

Install in reverse order.

It is much easier to put the trans up with the rear motor mount bracket just hanging there than it is keeping the stupid crossmember up. This allows you to also angle the motor downwards a bit making getting the the trans on and bolted up much easier.

Then get the trans on and bolt up the trans mount on the drivers side leaving the bolt going into the frame loose so the motor can pivot there.

Then use a jack under the back of the trans to pick it up into place and put the motor mount bracket on the trans, After modifying the stabalizer washer first in your case.

Get the 3 bolts that bolt into the trans, two longer and one short bolt started first and then put the big 17mm bolt that goes through the other part of the bracket and block into the trans. Then once they are all started tighten the 3 14mm bolts down first and then the 17mm bolt last. Get the shifter rod connected and then use the jack to slouch the trans down a bit.

Put the crossmember up getting the rear motor mount up into the bracket first and start the bolt. Then then jack the trans back up in place until the crossmember comes flush against the frame lined up with the rear crossmember bolts. Reinstall the 2 back crossmember bolts and then put the front dogbone mount bolt back in and then reinstall the front crossmember bolts.

Bolt everything and connect all the connectors back up. Put the axles back in and your good to go after filling the trans with fluid.

Simple as that. I literally can have the trans out in less than 30 minutes and usually back up within 40 minutes filled with fluid.

One thing you need to note is make sure you have the dowel pins in your block holding the shim plate in place and make sure there are no dowel pins in your trans as well. Trust me this can be a big pain if you miss it. haha

Good luck. This shouldnt be as hard as your making it out to be.

you dont need to remove the crossmember why do people do that.

because it goes sooo much more smooth if you do. Ive done it with and without and just like this guy having problems getting the rear motor mount lined back up, same thing happened. It was a big pain trying to get it back on. There is a reason for this.

Especially if you let the weight of the motor down on that rear bracket, the bracket will tweak and bend at the part going up to the 17mm bolt. If this happens i can guarantee you that you will never get the rear motor mount bolts to line up again no matter how hard you try. Which is probably what this guy did.