Thread: Coolant Temperature Sensor

<< NOPE it says NOT to....


dude ,, your statement about the Teflon tape is False and all I did was posted up the correct information because I actually refer to the service manual when working on my car when in doubt,

thats becoming a big problem around here and for the newbe's that are trying to figure out whats wrong with there car and they find a thread that has little false information like that can be what make's or break's a potental Nissan enthusiast and cause them to give up quickly... and over statement so stupid. you clearly did not know what your talking about.








that day will come ,,, and just like the book does for you provided that you know how to read it.... you will no doubt learn something that will be with you for a long time to come.

i hear ya..

My sensor broke when a friend was taking my motor apart. He replaced it from one from a B13 during the rebuild. Since then, I am breaking up BAD above 4K and all I smell is fuel, running ultra rich and the temp gauge is all over the place, and I am positive the cooling system has been bled properly.

I have a spare CTS from a 95 that I am going to put in tomorrow, to match with my 97 ECU. I will let you all know if this takes care of the running incredibly rich issues. I didn't have my CEL light in at the moment but I'll be sure to throw it back in and clear the codes. Til tomorrow.

Sorry, didn't mean to jack the thread before, just got off on a tangent. On topic now, I believe I am running very rich due to my coolant temp sensor as well. My car never really comes down from cold idle. Very rarely... and it is definitely running super rich all the time as well. My situation is though I have a stock USDM highport, but am now running a Bluebird ECU... I wonder what kind of problems that can cause with the CTS...

..



my appoligies as well if I intruded... ..

but thats exactly what mine is doing, and every now and then it will drop down to 900 rpms.. (stock JDM here) mine was 10 times worse when I had thread tape on the temp sensor, very high idle(1,400-1,600 rpms) and rich enough to foul plugs when it was at idle, plugs would last about 3-4 days and the car even died on me one day when we left an autox event(had to change plugs to get home)

got the manual out and seen that it said not to do that and it works alot better but it's still not right.. and have tested a few things , everything seems to be fine.. I hope somebody comes across an answer.


subscribed!

im thinking this... the wire must be intact from factory like not bud connected or soder'd the sensor on the left (single wire) is copper maybe the connection must stay copper the whole way threw...

just an idea.. but seriously i think even if the cold goes away itll still be the same...i hope not but from the facts and things ive tried already doesnt look like it..

When you solder a connection, you complete the circuit. They solder will not effect the connection as you're suggesting. If it were, no one would ever solder a connection...

very simply put... ALL sensors on your motor must match your ecu. Easiest way to avoid problems. USDM=USDM sensors; JDM=JDM sensors. My det had jdm cts's in it and I had to change them so that the ecu and my guage would read correctly. And not to get off topic again but nathan that bluebird ecu thinks it's running an 8.5:1 boosted motor, bluebird maf, etc etc.

well what if your sensors match, and are "good" but your car still runs Cold in the winter? i too am waitin for summer to see what happens.. like i said before.. my car always warmed up fine.. until winter..

What temp is everyone considering cold?? My car never...ever reached half way in winter or summer. Just below halfway is typical. Is your car running "Cold" in the winter causing ill effects? Running richer than usual?