Thread: timing chain replacement

I would like to replace my timing chain for the first time of my life.

I'm in the situation to have a DD and that is one I don't want to test my skills on yet and a rusted car with a damn good maintained engine in it.

So, I'm already sure I will be missing the proper tools in my chest and never had done this before. I also don't have a torque wrench.

Because the rusted car is nearing its annual inspection date, I'm not in a hurry yet but would like to test my self on taking the chain and all replacables off, crank the crankpulley a bit to be sure to have a messed up setting and put the timing chain back.

I would like to know what tools I need and what to be aware of. I'm no n00b on the matter but my knowledge is generic and not SR20 specific, but I would be really grateful if someone has a howto in the form of http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/19122-how-change-timing-chain-tensioner.html#post306173

btw, all has to be done on a parkinglot and my goal is to get experienced enough and have the proper tools to do my DD in a single day.

Help?

ummmmm, why would you want to replace the timing chain. Especially if the engine is a very well maintained engine. The timing chain is meant to last the life of the engine however long that may be.

If you want to replace the timing chain tensioner then thats an easy one. Remove the oil filter housing, rotate the engine to top dead center and remove the old with gasket and install new with gasket. Turn the motor over by hand until you hear the tensioner release (clicking sound) and install filter and start it up.

Again no need to replace the chain. EVER!!!!!

I won't argue.

But the tensioner is very easy and I thought of swapping that one first and see what happens.

But the chain on this well maintained car is rock solid and you can't hear it @ idle. The rest of the car (chassis) is not maintained and beyond repair.

This is the car I'm 'playing' with:
(pink and rotten chassis)

This is the car that has a sloppy chain and goes ringring!! all the time. Also the HLVA's are crap on this car. But it's rock solid chassis!! And no, I'm not gonna swap the engine, though that would be the best shortcut, I don't have the facilities for that.

So what tools should I get and what to look for? I'm sure to have to get tools while at it and learn and then do the DD, which is this one:


I would like to learn, get the tools and do it perfectly and time is no issue and then do my DD all in one day. And thats just impossible without owning tools or having some experience first.

p.s. If I could take my DD apart and not need it, and have a shed to store it where I also can connect a laptop and fix all my tools and stuff, I wouldn';t even be asking you guys. I have to do this on a parkinglot. It's a safe parkinglot but that's all thats good about it.

just swap the tensioner. Thats why the chain is rattling. The new style tensioner has a larger piston and allows for a much stronger chain tension which will result in less rattling. And if worse comes to worse you can remove the upper timing chain guide but i can guarantee you that it should not rattle after having a new tensioner in there. They get old after time and dont hold tension very well causing it to rattle.

Lies.

This sure is great!

But I really don't want to remove the upper guide. Are there a lot of ppl that did this new tensioner swap?

What are the results?

Well, you have the right thread posted already. Not too many people subscribed in it but still But I did, and I also did replace my tensioner.

I suggest you first change the tensioner. If the engine still has that rattle, remove the upper guide. I also have that guide, but my chain is not touching it. I know few people who removed that guide a long time ago and cars still run great (N14, B13, P10).
You sound just like I did an year after I bought my P10: "...And removing the upper guide? That guide was put intentionally and I don't feel like removing mine...".

If you still want to change the chain and everything else (from Greg's kit for example), it is too much of a work and for a person who had never done it before it - I would suggest not to do it. If it happens to have your engine out of the car one day, it will be great to use the chance of doing it. But now, I personally wouldn't mess with it. Plus the tensioner should do the work (if not the guide will do).

p.s. but still get yourself a torque wrench - it increases the feeling you can do everything

I agree just by looking at the chain with removed valve cover and imagine what has to be removed to get there and also get that chain all the way down, was enough work for me already

I've asked local auto shop about the tensioner, not available. So I'll be asking Nissan for it. But how do I explain to them I want the 1998-2001 tensioner? They always ask for the licenseplate number so I can't really tell them what I need, or I can, but then they say then we don't know the part number and can't order it. How do I get past this 'check'?

Other people say just don't rentension your chain with a new tensioner, that only will give a higher risk of the chain breaking because it isn't used to the higher tension.

I might get a decent torque wrench, just maybe, it depends because winter is comming and I'm on the parkinglot and the car won't pass inspection and has to be removed in march next year. It would be nice to learn replacing the intake cam. If this all fails I think I'll strip the engine as far as possible. Another option is still getting the engine out and moving it to my 'cellar' which has one slippery stair down.

I'm not sure, I certainly try replacing the tensioner, starting with the original one I have (it has 60k miles less on it) and somehow I'll be needing the HLVA's too.. quite steep learning curve for me, and no real good and cheap way of storing the car (150 euro a month aint cheap). Sorry for the long post, but I'm actually looking in to 3 things at once, chain, cam, valve adjusters. The rest on my list is doable for me.

The best advice I can give you is to ask Greg on Gspec for that tensioner. He sells them for 65$/piece plus the gasket, which I believe is not needed if the old one is in good shape. Add some shipping - maybe 15-20$ and you are ready to go. Friend in Madrid bought it last week for 96 Euro with the gasket. It is about the same price here in local Nissan. I was lucky to get it very cheap from a friend who just happened to have it.

Use this VIN number ordering the tensioner from Nissan: JN1EEAN15U0511200. It is from a P2 '99 N15 GTi (my friend in Madrid). And check the PN of what you need from the link: PicValley.net - FREE anonymous photo hosting and photo sharing
Sorry for the bad quality, but this is the best out of the Nokia..

I do not really agree with the part of breaking the chain because of the higher tension. I don't tihnk it is up to pressure, and I do believe it is more up to the tensioner step. The one with the small teeth has smaller step and provides better/smaller and more precised control. I've never read anything about the old one does less tension.

There is plenty of info here and pretty much everywhere about the cams removal/installation. The FSM also has that great explanation of How to. You can also use JWT's instructions on how to install JWT cams. It will pretty much clear all doubts you might have. If not, ask

Thanks for the info all of you.

I've bookmarked this and put it on my to-swap list. It's a long list

Please don't think somebody asked a question and won't do anything with the answers. The answers are very good and tell me it's wise to wait to next year, 2 reasons, cashflow and 2 scrap cars that have to go better sooner then later because they cost money. (At the moment I don't want to spend close to 100 euro to stop the ringing, next year I will)

I'm not sure how far I will look in to replacing the chain, that also depends on how far I will open up the scrap SR20DE/ or get it in the shed and then I still have to think about cams and HVLA's. Maybe better to get a friend to help me out. One with a garage of some sort.

Now I'll be looking in to replacing headlights, bumper + lip, getting the Nx1600 to the scrapyard (I want to keep the Nx2000 as long as possible bc. of it's value of being identical)

Would it be helpful to just swap the tensioner or is that a pointless idea?