put it this way, from 19-24 i gained almost 60whp, 2psi especially when you increase efficiency will make a big difference, could see 40whp from 2 psi along. Just look at jp's numbers 2 psi on his setup made almost a 60whp difference, haha
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1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
JMS Racing tuned to 716whp, 423wtq at 29psi
10.5 @ 149.2mph to date I believe the fastest trap speed SE-R, Much more to come with some changes!
looks like ill be there for a friday and saturday thing, Friday to fit the manifold and make sure everything is good to go and maybe do some dyno tuning and then saturday dyno tuning by the looks of it.
Hit me up before next weekend and shoot me your number and ill be sure to let you know.
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1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
JMS Racing tuned to 716whp, 423wtq at 29psi
10.5 @ 149.2mph to date I believe the fastest trap speed SE-R, Much more to come with some changes!
id like to see something of quality come out without the price of quality, now i know that isnt heard of, but it would be nice to see someone come out with a great product without that high end cost.
this could be it, the quality looks great and we will see shortly how well it performs.
Now someone help me sell those CP pistons so i can get a trans and couple other things before i go to Cali. haha
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1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
JMS Racing tuned to 716whp, 423wtq at 29psi
10.5 @ 149.2mph to date I believe the fastest trap speed SE-R, Much more to come with some changes!
Hmm there not that far from my buddies shop that I dyno at. I'll have to let him know about there intake manifolds since a few of his turbo VE's were looking for something.
Let the games begin. Time to save money and bump the hours on my part time job.
Originally Posted by ashtonsser if you want a decently smooth idle you do. You can only get it soo smooth setting the butterfly screw. I know you dont NEED it but if you want better driveability from stoplight to stoplight. And the slightest things can change your idle quality. Then your screwed. The iacv can compensate for a lot of changes such as weather, temperature, altitude, how well the motor is running, what temp the motor is.
Again to me its necessary and its something i would want to keep as well as many others. There are many that have experience with and without it but most will tell you they prefer it.
^
Originally Posted by GT2871RBLUBIRD i agree at best they should incorperate a blocked off plate for both the iacv and aac valve so ppl who do want to use them can and ppl who dont wont. i also agree that those are needed as some ems such as the aem, do use a great ammount of settings that incorperate both iacv and the aac valve to maintain a certain idle both at start up and normal idle configurations.
some some might and might not need it, i personally would
x3 - I would like to run the aac/iacv.
Originally Posted by TeKKiE Well you need to remember that our manifolds are pretty much basic manifolds with no options. Vacuum ports are standard, with any manifold. Since you and I both run without the AAC/IACV, a base manifold is more than suitable for use on our cars. A group buy at 5 or more for $700 is a GREAT deal, in any case.
^Do you not have a spot for the AAC/IACV on your O2? Are the highports the same way?
Originally Posted by BlueRB240 Hmm there not that far from my buddies shop that I dyno at. I'll have to let him know about there intake manifolds since a few of his turbo VE's were looking for something.
^Do so........
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1993 SE-R | 2.0L Full bolt-on setup | 2.3L VE up next | 2015 Q50-S | 3.7L The Sunday car | 2003 Kia Rio-cinco | 1.6L gas saving daily driver |
Originally Posted by SR20GTi-R NA is a thinking man's game, alot of people dont have the stomach to play NA.