Thread: Kia/Hyundai 2.4L timing belt...

So it's time to change out my moms timing belt on her 2004 Kia Optima/Hyundai Sonata 2.4L DOHC 4 banger.

Just wondering if anyone has ever done one before? Just looking for some tips or tricks to make it go smoother. I have access to Alldata, but the directions tell me to remove the cams...WTF?

I've done timing belts before, but the ones i have done only had 1 belt & these engines have 2 belts, 2 tensioners. From what i've read it's similar to the 4g63 Mitsubishi motor...

I know it has a total of 4 belts. 2 inner & 2 outer. I'll be doing it at work since it's kinda slow , plus she says she will pay me in beer mmmmmmm bbbbeerrrrr

It is similar to the 4G.

I looked at mine, and said FUCCK THAT. I took it to my friend that works at Kia and paid him for parts and a case of beer to do it for me.

Well i work at a shop and have done timing belts before so i am hoping this one is straight forward

I've done them before, too. Kia just scares me is all. Way too much plastic to get thru just to change a timing belt.

Oh, and the oil pump belt.

yeah i got both belts. I haven't done a Hyundai/Kia timing belt yet, i understand i have to remove the crank sensor & crank tone wheel too.

The only part that scares me and i hope i'm overthinking it is the oil pump also has to be timed correctly, otherwise it gets bad vibrations FTL

well i replaced both belts & now it doesn't start. I have no spark & code P0335 crank pos. circuit.

I'll have to take another look. The crank sensor sits behind the timing cover behind some tone wheel looking thing.

I researched it and found...

P0335

• Open or short to chassis ground between CKP and ECU
• Short to battery between CKP and ECU
• Short between CKP wires
• Out of allowable air gap
• Faulty Target wheel tolerance
• Faulty CKP




man i hope i ddnt kill this motor , wish me luck man

Make sure the crank sensor is the correct distance from the reluctor or "target" wheel...then check the wiring. I believe this is sounding a little too familiar....If I remember correctly, it is probably the crank sensor is too far away from the wheel. Do you have a scan tool that reads realtime and a multimeter? You should be fine, although it may take some time to get right. Check All Data for the specs to see what the distance should be. The engine definatly shouldn't be toast, well at least not just from that code.

Yeah i figured it HAD to be something simple like that , since that's the ONLY code i'm getting.

If the valves were bent or w/e i would be getting multiple codes. But thats the ONLY code i am getting. I don't have a scanner that reads realtime.

Thanx for responding as i'm beating myself up over it...

It was a pretty straightforward job other than the code....

I wonder if the relucter whel is either too close or too far...

i'll check manana....

Okay in between the show, now.

He said to make sure that the small pulley around/near the balancer is turned to the right and lines up with a notch, when you put the balancer belt on. It will turn itself back left into time when the motor is cranked. He also said that more than likely the crank sensor needs to be replaced. He replaces them any time he does a timing belt. He also said to check a blade to make sure it's not bent, not 100% sure which blade but he made it sound like it was also part of the crank sensor assembly.

This is what I remember from talking with him.

yes that " blade " is the tone/target/reluctor wheel that sits behind the crank pulley. Yes all of my alignment marks are in the correct position, i.e crank pulley/balance/oil pump/intake cam/ exhaust cam are lined up perfectly.

The only thing i can think of right off the top of my head is , the reluctor/target/tone wheel is too far from the crank sensor, or i may have damaged the crank sensor itself when i removed it or when i was wrestling the belt onto the gears.

It is the only code i am getting which is kind of a relief, if i did bend some valves i'm sure i would be getting misfire codes also.

I will buy a new sensor just in case i need to replace it or if in fact i did break it.

The one wheel that sits behind the crank pulley doesn't look bent, and if it is possible to install it backwards, i painted the front part of it so i would know where the timing mark would be....


BTW i appreciate your help Tek