Thread: Opinions on what I should sell my car for?

Yes, after much wrenching and stuff it's time to move on. I need to take care of our minivan and I have no time for a project for now.

Below is what the car will have with it for sale, I guess, and if I cant sell it whole then I'm going to part out. The battery and K&N filter I will keep for the van, but the car will have a good filter and battery in it.

Thanks for your valued expert opinions, sr20 gurus.

Dan.

Chassis:
1994.5 B13 Sentra XE, about 349k kms (218k miles) on it before auto-manual swap and motor swap - 10k kms on it since (6300 miles)

Engine and drivetrain:
USDM GA16DE, bought new in 2000, w/ approx. 70k kms on it now (44k miles)
Upper intake plenum port-matched to SR20 throttle body
Carb fuel filter catch can for PCV system
300ZX TT fuel filter
Prothane motor and transmission mounts
Shifter stabilizer bushing mod
Outlaw Engineering Thermoblok spacers on intake manifold and throttle body
USDM 5-speed transmission, approx. 138k kms on it now (86k miles)
CSF High-performance all-metal radiator
Dual-friction clutch and performance pressure plate (ACT?)
OEM NGK SR20DE platinum spark plugs BFR-6G-11
Mobil1 10W30 Synthetic motor oil
Redline MT90 synthetic transmission fluid
50-50 water-coolant mix

Breath:
Custom 2.5-inch mandrel-bend intake
Custom airbox with cool air induction
K&N cone filter, oversize
Hotshot 4-2-1 header, latest generation - wrapped
Universal high-flow catalytic convertor
2.5-inch header-back exhaust
Magnaflow resonator and muffler
Custom stiffened muffler hangers

Interior:
JVC MP3 headunit, Sony Xplod front speakers, Pioneer rear speakers
91 SE-R seats w/NX2000 seat rails
Aftermarket tach
Aftermarket steering wheel w/240sx hub adapter
Cosmoracing short-throw shifter
B&M shift knob
Leather shifter boot
AC Autotechnic water temp-volt-oil temp. digital gauge and fan controller
Manual fan override switch
iEquus mechanical boost and oil pressure gauges (oil not yet connected, was prep for turbo install...)
GlobalTGP HG-100 heads-up display GPS digital speedometer

Exterior:
Stillen aero kit (air dam, side skirts, rear fascia)
Custom FRP front undertray
DeftRacing carbon fiber hood
APC hood pins
Stealth tints: 50% front doors; Charcoal tints: 20% rear doors. Rear windshield retinted soon.
Gradual tint windshield strip
Shaved antenna
Tsuru front end conversion with modified (shaved) grille
Sylvania Silverstar headlight bulbs
some LED bulbs here and there
Stainless muffler tip
15" Rota Slipstream wheels, 11.9 lbs., 67.1mm center bore, matte black w/ customized center caps - tiny curb rash on 1 of the wheels, can't see it from 6ft away
Falken Ziex-912 205-50R15 tires, 20.4 lbs. each - 3000kms (1875 miles) mostly highway on them
Custom hub- and wheel-centric 5mm rear spacers
3mm universal front spacers

Suspension:
Active Tuning rear strut tower bar
Cusco N14 front strut tower bar
Whiteline rear sway bar
KYB AGX struts
Custom Road Magnet springs, Drop: 1.5" front/1" rear , Spring rates: 325/250
Koni progressive bump stops
(suspension has about 6000kms on it, 3750 miles)

Other:
Optima Redtop battery relocated to trunk (Knukonceptz components)
Walbro 190LPH low-pressure fuel pump
B-Quiet Ultimate sound deadener in trunk, rear deck, under rear seat and in front doors
Cruise control deleted
EGR deleted
EVAP deleted
Custom grounding kit

Weight reduction:
Tow hooks removed
Heat shields removed
Jack bracket removed
Shaved-down alternator bracket
(lightweight hood and wheels)

Good: a bunch of stuff replaced not that long ago, full rear brakes, fuel filter, front brakes, brake fluid, coolant, PS fluid reservoir flushed, outer tie rod ends, headlight bulbs, fuel filler neck, gas tank...floors are solid, frame is solid. No accidents. Comes with a trunk full of spare parts: 3 axles, fuel rails and injectors, MAFs, etc etc +4 13" steelies with working winter tires

bad: windshield has 3-inch crack across top corner of driver's side windshield from when it was taken off and re-sealed, but it can't spread. Across top of windshield rust started to bubble, I put silicone across teh top to put it off till later. Some rust in doorjambs, a bit on bottom or pass. side lower doorframe. Speedo/odo doesnt work since swap (speedo gear inside tranny got munched by putting the auto sensor in it), I guesstimate mileages based on keeping all fuel receipts and using 500km/tank. GPS speedo keeps you from getting tickets. It doesnt have an sr20in it lol and yeah, it could use the bodywork finished up and a respray. Driver's CV axle just started clicking when turning right.


Bear in mind that there are only a couple B13s with sr20s in them around here, and they ain't SE-Rs. A handful of modded B13's at the most.

a few pics:

with that motor..

3000$ the most..

yeah, I figure I'm going to need to part it out. They make good winter beaters though, fun in the snow

I honestly wouldnt pay more than 2k for that. Less more than likely.

Of course no one here would pay big money for your car, but most people don't know the difference between and SR and GA. The mod list, and look of the car is whats going to impress them. I say put it up for $3000, and accept $2500.

I'd give 2250 - 2500 for it. It's tasteful - a great DD, maybe?

if you part it out how much do you want for the body kit lol. and yea prob 2k at most but me knowing its a GA is a turn off lol. the car is clean

since the motor is basicly useless to anyone who wants to really get power asking 2250-2500 really isnt bad for basicly a shell, it looks good and would be worth a nice swap

I know, I wouldn't be selling it on these forums anyways rofl

Worst thing is that I put together a complete turbo kit with everything needed. I just don;t have the time or place to do it up.

This car has plenty of power for autocrossing and moving one;s butt from A to B in a fun and cheap way. Maybe lapping or drag racing yeah, its definitely slowwww. But they never sold B13 SE-R's here, and so the market is a lil bit different. On the flip side, we have heaps of cheap JDM motors. Should've replaced the motor with an SR20, but back then the car was still the family car and my daily commuter and I knew nothing about mechanics.

I appreciate all opinions though. The trouble with parting it put is, despite all our free-trade agreements, it is pretty expensive to ship across the US-Canada border - especially for big or heavy stuff.

We;ll see in the very near future then. I am just waiting on a local B13 racer, if he wants some parts then I'll start parting out.

Thanks guys. If all goes well I think I'll pick up a P10, with some A/C, and the kids will enjoy the ride a little more

get an sr16ve IT COMES WITH TRANNY... then get trunk from se-r with inner tail lights.. an your done the car is pretty much set. look wise.