Thread: Removing Knock Senosor Connector

if you are stock I believe it will retard timing a bit across the board. It does on B15s, not 100% on the old cars.

reason why I said I dont have one they are pointless on the non stock ecu's i guess you call them

its a clip like on the MAF

Removing it does throw a ghost code (cel wont light up) and will retard the timing because the ecu is trying to prevent detonation.
Past 4500rpm (I think that's the rpms) however the ecu ignores the knock sensor.

do you know what size wrench the bolt is? i used a 12. are they usually hard to come off?

no but it prob just needs a little muscle and it should be a 10 or 12

my knock sensor is bad and the car is really slow unless i delete the code which comes back about 3min later...

So is mine for the past 2 years

It's a 12mm bolt and it should be torqued to something like 18 ft·lbs but every one I've ever removed took over 60 ft·lbs to remove. No idea why.

i did the test on mine with a timing light and a hammer. before i tapped the block, the marks on the pulley were jumping around.....whatever that means, but when i tapped the block with a hammer, i understood it should have went backwards or whatever (retard timing) which never happened. i will try to put my new one on today. although my car is not "slow" because of this. im just getting really S***** gas mileage.