Originally Posted by sqd
i understand what you're saying. and honestly, it's a hell of a price for what you get both SSAC and BC.
but is there any R&D into their products? any proof that the product is actually their design? hotshot went out of business because people were ripping off their designs and selling it for half the price.
just sad to see.
and JER. i've sat there and listened to performance industry business owners FIRST HAND and understand that competition is what makes the world go around. but when people are stealing other peoples' designs, that's just wrong. knowing it's wrong and not supporting companies like that is called having morals. i'm glad that SSAC has grown the balls to make their own designs and IMPROVE on other people's designs. that is competition. but just stealing it is just BS.
i understand what you're saying. and honestly, it's a hell of a price for what you get both SSAC and BC.
but is there any R&D into their products? any proof that the product is actually their design? hotshot went out of business because people were ripping off their designs and selling it for half the price.
just sad to see.
and JER. i've sat there and listened to performance industry business owners FIRST HAND and understand that competition is what makes the world go around. but when people are stealing other peoples' designs, that's just wrong. knowing it's wrong and not supporting companies like that is called having morals. i'm glad that SSAC has grown the balls to make their own designs and IMPROVE on other people's designs. that is competition. but just stealing it is just BS.
how long ago did hotshot go out of business???? were talking about 2006 or guys when did ssac header come into play? ssac to my knowlage had nuthing to do with there downfall.. and as far as i kno hotshot didnt go out of business... this is from there site..
Dear customer: Late last year I was offered the great opportunity to take a very early retirement and after careful consideration I've decided to accept it. As of April 2007, I will be leaving the automotive business to take some time off to enjoy life and my family.
Because I've been asked: Hotshot Performance, Inc. is NOT going out of business, will NOT be taken over by another company and it WILL NOT be shipped overseas. When I started my business, I wanted an All American product, and that meant it had to be built in the USA not in a sweat factory overseas or by children. That's what I believe and that's all I'll say.
During the next weeks, we will be clearing out our existing inventory by offering rock bottom prices, and once those items are gone, they will not be put back into production. Take advantage of this great opportunity to own the last of what I know is a great product at never before seen prices!
Before I close, there are two people I must thank above all: Mike Kojima and Tom Paule: Thanks for your wisdom, for your unconditional friendship for being our guinnea pigs time and again and for winning year after year! (Now we can go surf), and to YOU, our customers, thanks for your continued support. Have fun racing, and be safe!
Thanks,
John A Spangler
President - Hotshot Performance, Inc.
Originally Posted by billc
I've recently compared the UR timing marks to the OEM crank. Because of the difference in diameter and the thickness of the pulleys, I concluded it would be real hard to transfer timing marks with any accuracy.
Keep in mind that once you put the smaller crank pulley on, the distance between your timing pointer and the crank increases enough to introduce error as you move your head around while siting the timing marks with the timing light. This factor only makes it more challenging to accurately set the timing after the pulley install.
What to do? Set the base timing before the install. Mark the distributor and housing at 15* and 19*. Use these marks for future timing adjustment -- they probably will be more accurate than any marks you can put on the smaller pulley.
If you want a backup, transfer the marks to the new pulley. Then check your base timing again and see if the marks are accurate. Make notes about how the marks calibrate and how to position your head for consistency.
I've recently compared the UR timing marks to the OEM crank. Because of the difference in diameter and the thickness of the pulleys, I concluded it would be real hard to transfer timing marks with any accuracy.
Keep in mind that once you put the smaller crank pulley on, the distance between your timing pointer and the crank increases enough to introduce error as you move your head around while siting the timing marks with the timing light. This factor only makes it more challenging to accurately set the timing after the pulley install.
What to do? Set the base timing before the install. Mark the distributor and housing at 15* and 19*. Use these marks for future timing adjustment -- they probably will be more accurate than any marks you can put on the smaller pulley.
If you want a backup, transfer the marks to the new pulley. Then check your base timing again and see if the marks are accurate. Make notes about how the marks calibrate and how to position your head for consistency.
or we can just put dc scottys computer and push a button to put it to the proper timing..