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Thread: under drive pulleys

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Posts: 21-30 of 82
2008-01-16 23:52:01
#21
exactly, people alwyas want to shoot things down without trying them, i cant see what would be wrong with them
2008-01-16 23:58:28
#22
pullies? so needs the stinking pully's?!?! the only pulley I'm running is the Crank and alternator!!
2008-01-17 00:04:30
#23
Originally Posted by SUNNYboi
In all my expireance with buy anything......you get what you paid for.


Not always.
2008-01-17 00:05:36
#24
SSAC headers is a good example. They might have some minor issue, but it's the same as the high dollar ones.
2008-01-17 11:18:56
#25
Originally Posted by XxToKeSxX
just mark them after you take your crank pulley off, compare radially... and put some small notches in them with an etcher, or knife.


I've recently compared the UR timing marks to the OEM crank. Because of the difference in diameter and the thickness of the pulleys, I concluded it would be real hard to transfer timing marks with any accuracy.

Keep in mind that once you put the smaller crank pulley on, the distance between your timing pointer and the crank increases enough to introduce error as you move your head around while siting the timing marks with the timing light. This factor only makes it more challenging to accurately set the timing after the pulley install.

What to do? Set the base timing before the install. Mark the distributor and housing at 15* and 19*. Use these marks for future timing adjustment -- they probably will be more accurate than any marks you can put on the smaller pulley.

If you want a backup, transfer the marks to the new pulley. Then check your base timing again and see if the marks are accurate. Make notes about how the marks calibrate and how to position your head for consistency.
2008-01-17 15:59:44
#26
Originally Posted by billc
I've recently compared the UR timing marks to the OEM crank. Because of the difference in diameter and the thickness of the pulleys, I concluded it would be real hard to transfer timing marks with any accuracy.

Keep in mind that once you put the smaller crank pulley on, the distance between your timing pointer and the crank increases enough to introduce error as you move your head around while siting the timing marks with the timing light. This factor only makes it more challenging to accurately set the timing after the pulley install.

What to do? Set the base timing before the install. Mark the distributor and housing at 15* and 19*. Use these marks for future timing adjustment -- they probably will be more accurate than any marks you can put on the smaller pulley.

If you want a backup, transfer the marks to the new pulley. Then check your base timing again and see if the marks are accurate. Make notes about how the marks calibrate and how to position your head for consistency.


x2 that is a very good idea, as the aftermakret pullies can kinda get tricky in that area.
2008-01-17 16:25:24
#27
Originally Posted by billc
I've recently compared the UR timing marks to the OEM crank. Because of the difference in diameter and the thickness of the pulleys, I concluded it would be real hard to transfer timing marks with any accuracy.

Keep in mind that once you put the smaller crank pulley on, the distance between your timing pointer and the crank increases enough to introduce error as you move your head around while siting the timing marks with the timing light. This factor only makes it more challenging to accurately set the timing after the pulley install.

What to do? Set the base timing before the install. Mark the distributor and housing at 15* and 19*. Use these marks for future timing adjustment -- they probably will be more accurate than any marks you can put on the smaller pulley.

If you want a backup, transfer the marks to the new pulley. Then check your base timing again and see if the marks are accurate. Make notes about how the marks calibrate and how to position your head for consistency.


Very good observation... I concur!
2008-01-17 17:22:41
#28
Originally Posted by Keo
SSAC headers is a good example. They might have some minor issue, but it's the same as the high dollar ones.


that would be because it is a direct rip off of the "high dollar ones"

2008-01-17 17:24:15
#29
Originally Posted by sqd
that would be because it is a direct rip off of the "high dollar ones"



very true, but if your application isnt really calling for the high dollar one, then the cheper one would be just as efficent i would think..quality maybe not the same, but performance aspects can somewhat be the same
2008-01-17 17:40:03
#30
Originally Posted by sqd
that would be because it is a direct rip off of the "high dollar ones"



Funny because I have personally had an ssauto header side by side with a hotshot gen5, and there are many differences. They MAY have copied it years ago with their first version of their header, but I have not seen proof of that. I do know that the newer ones are NOT the same as the gen5.

Don't just requote what other people say, unless you have first hand experience. Even if it is Mike K.
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